Although fully hardy, apricots flower early and are vunerable to frost, so therefore are best grown on a warm, sheltered, south-facing wall, or freestanding in milder climates, choosing an appropriate cultivar.
Apricots flourish on deep, moisture retentive, well-drained, ideally slightly alkaline soils and struggle in poor, shallow soils.
Dig in one bucketful of well-rotted organic material before planting. Plant during the dormant season from November to March. Autumn is ideal as the soil is still warm.
Cover trees apricots with horticultural fleece, or clear polythene supported by bamboo canes, to protect the blossom from frost. The fleece or polythene must not touch the flowers. Remove this during the day to allow sunlight and pollinating insects to reach the plant.
Hand-pollination increases yields, over several days – ideally around noon on a dry, sunny day – using a soft artist's brush or a cotton wool bud. Lightly mist the tree with water to ensure that the pollen sticks but so the flowers dry out before dark.
Heavy crops should be thinned to about 8-10.5cm (3-4in) apart when the fruits are the size of hazelnuts. Start by removing mis-shapen fruit and those growing towards the wall.
Read more information on thinning fruit
Water newly-planted trees frequently as they establish in their first spring and summer, and before the onset of drought, when mature trees may need watering too. This is particularly important when the fruit starts to swell.
Feed with granular fertiliser such as Growmore at 70g per sq m in late February.
Mulch around the rooting area with a 5cm (2in) layer of well-rotted manure, in March and early April.
Training
Apricots are grafted, usually onto the rootstock ‘St Julien A’ or ‘Torinel’ – both are semi vigorous; fan-trained apricots reaching up to 4m (13ft) x (6.5ft).
When growing fans, erect straining wires 22.5cm (9in) apart, tie in young branches to canes attached to the wires.
Training fan apricots is the same as for a fan-trained peach. To form an apricot fan, cut back the central leader of a feathered tree to two side branches low down on the main stem; these will form the ribs of the fan. Tie in new shoots as they develop.
Training bush apricots is the same as for bush-trained plums, but growth begins in early February.
Pruning
Apricots bear fruit on shoots made the previous summer and on short spurs from the older wood.
Only prune in spring or from the end of July to the end of August or in spring when the sap is rising.
Read more information on pruning mature fan-trained apricots
Pruning mature bush apricots is the same as for pruning sweet cherries.
The fruit is ready from late July to August, when it is soft and detaches easily from the tree. Harvest and transport apricots carefully, to avoid bruising.
Apricots can only be stored for a few days so are best consumed immediately – straight from the tree! Alternatively, they can be dried or made into preserves.
‘Alfred’: A traditional cultivar with medium-sized fruit and orange flesh. It needs needs good soil and a sheltered, sunny site.
‘Aprigold': A dwarf tree reaching 1.2-1.5m (4-5’) after ten years. It is ideal for a pot on the patio in John Innes Compost No3. It crops heavily, with delicious, orange-gold fruits.
‘Flavorcot’ (syn. 'Bayoto’): This Canadian cultivar is renowned for its reliability and frost tolerance. It produces juicy, orange-red fruit, ripening in late summer.
‘Moorpark’ AGM: A late cultivar with orange-red fruits. The fruit is golden-orange with an attractive, crimson flush.
‘Tomcot’: Reliable in cool climates, it crops early in mid-summer, producing large, orange fruits with a crimson blush.
Silver leaf: Leaves develop a silvery sheen, cut branches reveal red staining.
Remedy: Prune from the end of June until the end of August or in early spring. Keep pruning cuts to a minimum, pruning regularly so cut surfaces are small.
Read more information on silver leaf
Bacterial canker: Split bark with oozing sap, which solidifies. Infection girdles the branches.
Remedy: prune from the end of June to August, remove infected stems to health growth below.
Read more information on bacterial canker
Red spider or two spotted mite: Leaves become mottled, pale and covered in webbing, on which the mites can be clearly seen; leaves also drop prematurely.
Remedy: They thrive in hot, dry conditions, so mist plants regularly. Use sprays based on soft soap, plant oils or extracts. Use the biological control Phytoseiulus persimilis in the greenhouse.
Read more information on spider mite
Birds: They eat the ripening fruit.
Remedy: net crops securely or cover with horticultural fleece in the latter stages of ripening.