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How I garden for my kitchen

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Nigel Slater on...

Nigel Slater on...

Nigel writes on some of the best produce for growing and cooking every month

Nigel Slater: How I Garden For My KitchenNigel Slater introduces this series on food from the garden and explains his passionate for growing his own produce. He explains...

I have always grown something for the kitchen. The first rickety wigwam of runner beans in my father’s garden; the sprouted lentils in my room at college; the single row of tomato plants balanced precariously on the windowsill of my first London flat.

The main reason for buying the terraced house in which I now live was its long garden. Far from what you would call large, I nevertheless felt it would give me a wider opportunity to grow something of my own.

A small fruit and vegetable garden is frustrating for the excitable gardener – there is so much you are forced to leave out. At first I refused to grow potatoes or peas because they threatened to take up so much room. Even now, having calmed down from my initial overenthusiasm, the beans, tomatoes and squashes tend to collide with the dahlias giving an impression of mild chaos in a small space.

The first thing I planted in this garden, almost a decade ago now, was a ‘Discovery’ apple tree. It was a flight of pure nostalgia. I had the urge to re-create the single most pleasing memory from my childhood; that of the particular scent of the tree’s ripe fruit falling into the Phlox paniculata underneath. The scent of happy days.

Other edibles quickly followed: a damson tree, a mirabelle, a medlar, Kentish cobnuts and then my first vegetables, a sturdy frame of scarlet-flowered runner beans and three rows of different broad beans. Before long I was comparing one bean to the next and assessing their suitability for the kitchen.

I know I can never be even remotely self sufficient; the organic box and the Saturday trip to the farmers’ market continue to be part of my life, but that is not the point. I garden for the feel of pushing a seed into the soil, the joy of watching that first little shoot, of being able to eat something within minutes of picking. Above all I grow for the pleasure (admittedly with the occasional heartbreak) of growing at least something whose story I will know from seed to plate.

Find out more about Nigel - visit www.nigelslater.com
 

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Nigel Slater: How I garden for my kitchen

In this 2008 series, Nigel explains what he grows in his town garden and shares some mouth-watering recipes.

Getting to grips and making the most of space (May)
A salad of leaves, herbs, pancetta and croutons
Broad beans in their pods with dill and yoghurt

Planting, herb heaven and al fresco dining (June)
Radish, mint and feta salad
Trout with crumbs and summer herbs

Best use of space, pushing potatoes (July)
Mozzarella and green beans
Warm lentils, peas and goat’s cheese

The good, the bad - but nothing ugly (August)
New potatoes & salami
Damson ice cream

Fighting against the grain (September)
Bucatini with roast tomato and crisp pancetta
Stewed blackcurrants with cream and yoghurt