Garlic grows well in any sunny, fertile site. For every square metre add 50g (2oz) of general-purpose fertiliser before planting.
It is best not to plant garlic cloves bought from a supermarket – they may carry disease and may not be suited to the climate. Instead, buy them from a garden centre or mail order supplier.
Garlic is best planted in late autumn or early winter; the general rule of thumb is to plant cloves before Christmas.
Break up the bulbs and plant individual cloves just below the soil surface 15cm (6in) apart and in rows 30cm (12in) apart.
Prevent birds from pulling up the cloves by covering the rows with horticultural fleece.
Garlic casts no shade and is vulnerable to being smothered by weeds. You can avoid this by removing weeds regularly before they become established.
Garlic does not need additional watering, although during spring and early summer an occasional thorough watering during dry spells will improve yields. Don’t water once the bulbs are large and well-formed, as this could encourage rotting.
Snip off any flowers that form – they seldom do.
Green leaves can be gathered green and used as a garnish or in salads, but the bulbs are harvested once the leaves have turned yellow.
Carefully lift them with a fork or hand fork.
Lay out the bulbs to dry in an airy place. When rustling dry they can be stored in ventilated containers until you're ready to use them.
Often ‘top sets’ or garlic cloves form on the stalk. This is due to changeable weather in spring. Gather and use the top sets in the usual way.
‘Solent White’ AGM: Very attractive bulbs that are well adapted to the British climate. The bulbs store well into the following spring.
‘Purple Wight’: An early garlic with purple-streaked bulbs. It is best used fresh as it doesn’t store well.
‘Arno’ AGM: An attractive garlic with ivory-white skin covering pink cloves. Stores well.
‘Spanish Roja’: An old cultivar with a strong flavour. The cloves are easy to peel and store well.
Find out more about other AGM fruit & veg plants
Onion white rot: This fungus causes the leaves to wilt and turn yellow. Under wet conditions, the plants may not wilt but will become loose in the soil. If you lift them, you will see a white fluffy growth on the bulbs.
Remedy: Throw out any infected bulbs, and don’t grow leeks, onions or garlic in that spot again for at least eight years. This is a very persistent fungus that survives in the soil for a long time. There is no chemical control.
Read more information on onion white rot
Leek rust: This is a fungal disease causing bright yellow spots on the leaves. It is often worse in long, wet spells.
Remedy: Mild attacks of rust won’t affect the plant, but serious infections may cause leaves to shrivel and affect yield. There is no control for rust once you have the infection. Make sure you don’t crowd plants as this increases both humidity and the likelihood of infection. Dispose of any badly affected plant material, and don’t grow garlic, leeks or onions in the same spot for three years.
Read more information on dealing with rust
Birds: These can be a problem, pulling the shallow-rooting plants out of the ground.
Remedy: Place chicken wire, fleece or plastic netting over plants to keep the birds off. They are usually not such a problem when the plants are older and growing strongly.
Read more information on birds
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