Rhubarb needs an open, sunny site with moist, but free-draining soil as it hates being waterlogged in winter. Avoid frost pockets as stems are susceptible to frost.
It can be grown from seed, but it's more common to plant dormant crowns between autumn and spring. Prepare the ground by digging in two bucketfuls per square metre of well-rotted manure, then spread out the roots and plant so the tip of the crown is just visible above the soil.
Pot-grown rhubarb can be planted at any time, but will need plenty of water during dry spells. Space plants 75-90cm (30-36in) apart, with 30cm (12in) between rows.
Rhubarb can also be planted in very large pots at least 50cm (20in) deep and wide.
Keep rhubarb free of weeds by covering the ground with a mulch of composted manure, but avoid burying the crown as it will rot. Cover the area above the roots with 100g per sq m of Growmore or other general purpose fertiliser in March, and water regularly in dry spells to keep it moist and actively growing until autumn.
When the top growth dies back in autumn, remove the dead leaves to expose the crown to frost - this will help break dormancy and ensure a good crop of stalks the following year.
To get an earlier crop, you can force stems. To force stems, cover the crown with a traditional forcing jar, bucket or upturned pot in late winter, ensuring that all light is deprived. Cover drainage holes in pots with a brick or stones. When stems reach the top of the container, they are ready for harvesting. Forced stems are lighter and more tender than those grown in the light, and are generally ready three weeks earlier.
Do not harvest during the first year after planting as this will reduce vigour. Remove a few stems the next year, then up to a third or half from then on, leaving some to keep the plant in active growth. To remove, hold the stalk at the base and ease it out of the ground, aiming to avoid snapping it off. Although rhubarb stems remain palatable and usable through summer, it is best not to over crop the plant and cease pulling by June, or at least only remove a few stalks after then.
'Timperley Early' AGM: Thick stems, early, high yield. Bred for forcing; performs very well outside, but even better colour when forced.
'Victoria': Late type with heavy yields.
'Hawke's Champagne' AGM: Compact plants with high yield potential. It has attractive, bright red, medium length, uniform stems.
Crown rot: This is the most common problem affecting rhubarb caused by various soil or water-borne fungi or bacteria. Plants look sickly, fail to grow and rot at the crown. This can spread to stems and foliage causing the plant die.
Remedy: Prompt action may save the plant. Remove affected areas by cutting well back into healthy tissue.
Aphids: Aphids are mainly attracted to new leaves of rhubarb. Colonies of green or black insects suck sap from leaves and stems and excrete a sticky substance called honeydew, which then often attracts black sooty moulds to grow. In most cases the damage can be tolerated.
Remedy: Use your finger and thumb to squash aphid colonies. In most cases you won’t need to spray, but you could use pyrethrum, plant or fish oils or thiacloprid.
Read more information on aphids
Slugs and snails: Very few, if any, gardens are free of slugs and snails. At their most active at night and after rain, they are particularly fond of the new buds of rhubarb.
Remedy: It’s impossible to completely eradicate slugs and snails, so protect vulnerable plants. Non-chemical controls including hunting by torchlight on mild, damp nights, or making traps consisting of a jar half-filled with beer sunk into the ground near plants. Chemical pellets should be used with care to prevent accidental poisoning of pets or wildlife.
Read more information on snails
Read more information on slugs