Tomatoes generally come in two different types: cordon (or indeterminate) tomatoes grow tall (can reach up 2m/6ft) and require staking; bush (or determinate) tomatoes are bushy, and don’t require staking.
Tomatoes are very easy to grow from seed. Start them off indoors, using a propagator or place the pots in a plastic bag and keep on the windowsill. You can sow seed from late March to early April if you will be growing the plants outdoors. If you are planning on growing your tomatoes in a greenhouse, you can start sowing seed earlier, from late February; sow from mid-January to early February (heated greenhouse) or late February to mid-March (unheated greenhouse).
The young seedlings need to be kept at 18C (64F). Sow either in seed trays or small pots and transplant into 7.5-9cm (3-3.5in) pots when two true leaves have formed.
Young plants are available from garden centres in spring and are a good bet where you can't maintain the right conditions for germination and growing on, or if you don’t have the space to raise tomato seedlings. Young plants can usually be planted outdoors straight away. (Check with the shop when you buy them.)
More information about growing tomatoes
Transfer to 23cm (9in) pots, growing bags or plant 45-60cm (18-24in) apart outside when the flowers of the first truss are beginning to open; plants for growing outdoors should be hardened off first.
Tie the main stem to a vertical bamboo cane or wind it up a well-anchored but slack sturdy string. Those grown as bush or hanging basket types do not need support.
Remove the sideshoots regularly when they are about 2.5cm (1in) long. Those grown as bush or hanging basket types do not need to have sideshoots removed.
Water regularly to keep the soil/compost evenly moist. Feed every 10-14 days with a balanced liquid fertiliser, changing to a high potash one once the first fruits start to set.
Remove yellowing leaves below developing fruit trusses.
Once the plants reach the top of the greenhouse or have set seven trusses indoors or four trusses outdoors, remove the growing point of the main stem at two leaves above the top truss.
If you allow the soil or compost to dry out and then flood it the change in water content will cause the fruit to crack; always aim to keep plants evenly moist.
Irregular watering, together with a lack of calcium in the soil leads to blossom end rot - the bottom of the fruit turns black and becomes sunken.
Start picking when the fruit is ripe and fully coloured.
At the end of the growing season lift the plants with unripe fruit and either lay them on straw under cloches or hang them in a cool shed to aid ripening. Or you can, pick the green fruit and store in a drawer next to a banana, which aids ripening.
‘Ferline’: This is a beefsteak tomato with flavoursome, large red fruits and some resistance to tomato/potato blight. A cordon (indeterminate) type. Good in growing bags or pots.
‘Gardener’s Delight’ AGM: For small, flavoursome tomatoes, try this reliable and heavy cropping cultivar. A cordon (indeterminate) type. Good in growing bags or pots.
'Sweet Million' AGM: This tomato produces masses of small, sweet, cherry-sized, bright red fruits that children love. Sweet Million grows well in growing bags and pots, which makes it ideal if you are short on space. Described by Raymond Blanc, of Le Manoir aux Quatre Saisons, as ‘a good tomato experience… juicy.’
‘Tornado’ AGM: This bush (determinate) cultivar is hard to beat outdoors and is suitable for hanging baskets or pots.
‘Tumbler’: A trailing tomato that can be grown in hanging baskets. A small bush (determinate) cultivar.
Blossom end rot: Dark blotches appear on the ends of tomatoes.
Remedy: Water regularly and not sporadically and never allow the soil to dry out.
More information on blossom end rot
Tomato blight: Disease that causes fruit and foliage rot, most common in wet weather.
Remedy: Select resistant cultivars. Protectant sprays such as Bordeaux mixture and dithane can be applied in June if there it looks to be a wet summer.
More information on tomato blight
Tomato leaf mould: Leaf mould can develop rapidly to cause significant yield loss in greenhouse-grown tomatoes. It is rarely seen on outdoor crops. Yellow blotches develop on the upper leaf surface. A pale, greyish-brown mould growth is found on the corresponding lower surface. Where the disease is severe the mould growth may also be found on the upper surface.
Remedy: Select resistant cultivars. Provide ample ventilation to indoor tomato crops.
More information on tomato leaf mould
Tomato splitting and cracking:
Cracking or splitting usually does not affect the taste of the tomato, but split fruit left on the plant will often be infected by a fungus, such as grey mould and can cause a variety of physiological disorders.
Remedy: Control temperature and sunlight levels carefully. Feed regularly to maintain high soil fertility. Water to maintain a constant level of soil moisture.
More information on tomato splitting and cracking
Leaf problems: Inappropriate levels of water, light, temperature and nutrients can all cause problems with leaves in tomatoes. These are physiological disorders - problems that are caused by the growing conditions rather than by pests or diseases.
Remedy: Controlling sunlight and temperature levels will avoid extremes which cause disorders. Avoid erratic watering, keeping soil constantly moist.
More information on tomato leaf problems
Stem problems: Tomato stems occasionally show rots and distortions due to adverse growing conditions and/or diseases.
Remedy: Diseases that affect the stem usually persist in the soil. Changing to a system of using growing bags or pots will prevent these diseases. Removal and destruction of all infected material is also a wise precaution.
More information on tomato stem problems
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