Mow lawns when necessary - whenever the grass is growing - the aim is to maintain a constant height throughout the year.
Add the clippings to the compost heap in thin layers (too much grass all at once is likely to be very wet and poorly aerated, resulting in smelly slime rather than compost).
Use a half-moon edging iron or spade to create a 7.5cm (3in) ‘gutter’ around the lawn edge. This will prevent grass creeping from the lawn into borders.
Sowing new lawns or over-seeding dead patches can be carried out from mid-April to early May. If the soil is very wet or cold germination will be poor, so delay until the weather improves. Prepare the ground for sowing, by cultivating, levelling and lightly firming beforehand.
Do not walk over or mow newly sown grass until it has reached a height of 5-7.5cm (2-3in), and then only give it a light trim at the highest setting.
Apply a high nitrogen spring lawn fertiliser at the beginning of the month to encourage good, strong growth. If moss is a problem choose a combined fertiliser and mosskiller.
April is the best month to apply lawn weedkiller.
Lightly rake lawns with a spring-tine rake to remove old plant debris. This can also be done to rake out dead moss a couple of weeks after applying a chemical moss killer.
Repair bumps and hollows by peeling back the turf, removing or adding soil, and then replacing the turf.
It is still a good time to sow a wildflower meadow.
Troubleshooting
If a hosepipe bans is looking likely, consider keeping your lawn a little longer than usual, and even investing in a mulching mower.
Mulching mowers shred the grass clippings very finely and then blow them into the lower layers of the turf, where they act like mulch to help the lawn retain moisture. Because the clippings are fine, the end result is not unsightly, especially later in the season when the lawn gets very dry, and the mulch helps to keep it green rather than brown.