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Volume 134

Part 9

September

Local distinctiveness is a quality with which, nationally, we are starting to reconnect and celebrate. The origins of many customs may be a little hazy, and how they are celebrated may have changed over the years, but that does not matter.
Growing crops is all part of this tradition, but super­market culture has dulled regional diversity, relegating local custom and the importance of harvest to quaint idiosyncrasy. One crop, however, seems to be sparking a commercial and cultural renaissance. Thanks to war, French wine was scarce in 18th- and early 19th-century Britain, and so perry came to our rescue. Now its qualities are being re‑appreciated: enjoy its delights in Jon Ardle’s feature.

Ian Hodgson, Editor

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