Cultivating a new-build garden
The garden of a new house may look pristine, but newly-laid patios and lawns can hide a multitude of sins. Taking the time to properly assess the site and the soil will pay dividends by avoiding problems in the long run.
Before you begin
As a first step write down what you would like to achieve, the sequence that needs to be followed and the time necessary to complete each part of the project. Be realistic over timing by drawing up a programme of work targets and, hopefully, this will ensure the projects do not take for ever to complete.
The starting point
New-build homes at the upper end of the market may have custom designed and landscaped gardens. Most home buyers, however, will typically be faced with a turfed front garden and perhaps a feature tree. To the rear there may be a few paving slabs or more extensive patio. The rest of the back garden may be turfed or simply levelled and left for weeds to colonise, but at least some form of fencing around the plot is usually provided.
Sorting the soil
However, things may not be as neat as they appear. Most developments involve the removal of existing top soil prior to building. Construction traffic compacts the exposed sub-soil and debris in the form of bricks and timber off-cuts accumulates around the new house. Surplus quantities of aggregates, cement and concrete may also be discarded. A good deal of this debris may get covered over when soil is brought in to landscape the site. This results in an unnatural soil profile and a poor rooting environment for plants. The imported top soil may also vary in quality. One option is to double dig the entire garden. This allows the removal of debris and breaks up the compacted subsoil. Rotovating the soil is a less strenuous alternative, but beware of large pieces of rubble and buried wiring.
At this early stage it is well worth considering a full soil analysis. The RHS soil analysis service has been developed specifically with gardeners in mind and provides an analysis of soil texture, pH, organic matter and the major plant nutrients. You receive a detailed interpretation of the results as well as fertilizer recommendations.
Soils on new builds are typically low in organic matter and nutrients. Spread whatever organic matter is available (green-waste compost, well-rotted farmyard manure or spent mushroom compost, for example) over the dug soil, ideally at a rate of at least one bucketful per square metre and fork in or, for larger areas, rotovate. This will help build soil fertility. A dressing of general-purpose fertiliser can also be applied at 100g per square metre.
Another option to get a soil into workable condition is to plant main crop potatoes. These can go into roughly prepared soil and their foliage will smother weeds. When harvested another opportunity is given to turn the soil over and break it up.
If you decide to purchase additional topsoil request the suppliers provide a representative sample for your approval.
Assessing the site
A decision that needs to be made early on is what to retain. Many keen gardeners will not want extensive lawns – recognising that good lawns are time consuming and demanding in terms of maintenance and the environment. If poorly laid it may be only a matter of time before defects appear. Over heavy clay, lawns will also deteriorate with the winter wet while, over a sandy soil, they will become starved and prone to drought.
If you want a quality lawn, a better option may be to remove the existing grass, prepare the soil thoroughly and re-lay with better-quality turf.
Where a feature tree has been planted check its identity and suitability. Small growing trees, such as Sorbus, planted a suitable distance from the house, make an attractive addition to small gardens. However, if the tree is a sycamore or other tall growing tree a few metres from the house, it’s early removable and replacement is wise.
The plan
After the removal of unwanted features, get busy on the plan. It is relatively simple to create a scale drawing of the plot with no more than squared paper, a tape measure and wooden pegs. Most new plots will be relatively regular and rectangular in shape. The house walls will provide straight lines to work off. A good scale for initial planning is 2cm to 1 metre. This should allow most suburban plots to fit on a sheet of A3 paper.
On the plan include the position of inspection covers and the line of drains and sewer pipes. Use a compass to establish the direction the garden faces and record this on the plan. Wooden stakes graduated every 10cms, a stout plank and a spirit level will allow an accurate assessment of changes of level or slopes. The completed plan can then be photocopied or tracing paper overlays used to sketch out design ideas as they come to mind.
The design
A basic design is essential. Limited finance can lead to a ‘bit by bit’ approach to creating a garden. Constructing a patio for outdoor living as a priority is fine but if it is out of proportion with the rest of plot it may restrict space for other features. At this stage, or earlier, you may decide to employ a garden designer. Check with the Society of Garden Designers for their recommendations on choosing a garden designer. For many new home owners finances may not make this an option but there is a great amount of information available from various sources on garden design.
Professional garden designers use sophisticated CAD software and while the software available to the home gardener is improving, it is really not necessary. Any design will involve considering the uses the new garden will be put to, the style desired and the physical constraints of the site. Aspect and its affect on light and shade in the garden will determine planting and the siting of various features, but soil conditions and pH will also guide plant selection.
Hard landscaping
Where there are significant changes in gradient, such as a steeply sloping site, it may be necessary to consider putting in retaining walls. While this can be done as a DIY project, a qualified builder will do it in a fraction of the time, ensuring the walls and foundations are suitable for the task. If there is a considerable amount of hard landscaping to be undertaken you may decide to employ professional landscapers.
Where a fence has to be erected opt for concrete or plastic fence posts that will not rot. Hedging will provide a living boundary but bear in mind that it will require clipping two or three times during the summer.
Driveways to most properties are rarely wide enough so it may be worth considering laying a path to the side of the existing drive. If provision for extra off-street car parking is needed consider something more environmentally friendly and attractive than extensive tracts of tarmac or block paving. See our booklet Gardening Matters on front gardens.
Further information
BALI (British Association of Landscape Industries)
Association of Professional Landscapers
A simple guide to garden planning