Fruit & vegetable garden
Flower garden
Glasshouse, conservatory and houseplants
Trees, shrubs, roses, climbers and hedges
Lawns and meadows
Ponds
Wildlife gardening
Garden structures
Gardening for children
Top 10 jobs
1. Clear up fallen leaves - especially from lawns, ponds and beds
2. Raise containers onto pot feet to prevent waterlogging
3. Plant tulip bulbs for a spring display next year
4. Prune roses to prevent wind-rock
5. Plant out winter bedding
6. Cover brassicas with netting if pigeons are a problem
7. Insulate the greenhouse from frost - bubblewrap works well
8. Stop winter moth damage to fruit trees using grease bands around the trunks
9. Put out bird food to encourage winter birds into the garden
10. Use a seasonal bonfire - where this is allowed - to dispose of excess debris unfit for composting
Planting up winter containers step-by-step
November's weather
Glossary of terms
Bulb
Forcing
Heeling in
Rhizome
Fruit and vegetable garden
Fruit
Complete the harvest of apples and pears. Only store unblemished fruit to prevent rotting in storage.
Plant any cane, bush and tree fruit ordered last month. Do not plant if the ground is frozen or waterlogged. If the planting site is not ready when plants arrive, then heel in the bare-root ones in a spare piece of ground, and leave containerised ones standing - but water them when needed.
Start winter pruning of established, open-grown, apple and pear trees (not cordons, espaliers, pyramids or fans).
Gooseberries, redcurrants and blackcurrants can be pruned from around now, but it might be better to wait until late winter/early spring, so that any winter damage can be removed at the same time. Wounds will also heal faster in the warmer weather.
Grape vines can be pruned from now through the winter. Doing this early for those under glass will allow more light to reach other plants in the glasshouse or conservatory. Prunings can be used as hardwood cuttings.
Cut out the fruited canes of blackberries and hybrid berries, if not yet done.
Formative pruning of young, free standing, fruit trees and bushes (under three years old) can also be done from now. They should first be pruned to encourage branching and bushiness from the main stem. Subsequently, they should be encouraged to form an open centred ‘goblet’ shape of main branches, without any being misplaced or crossing.
Mulch fruit trees and bushes.
Lift and divide rhubarb plants to propagate them, or to rejuvenate old crowns.
Strawberry runners that have been potted up for forcing in February and March next year, should now be turned on their sides, or placed in a well-ventilated cold frame. Excess moisture or warmth could cause rots or precipitate premature growth.
Hardwood cuttings can be taken this month - this is a great way to propagate blackcurrants, redcurrants, white currants, gooseberries and grape vines - providing they are disease (especially virus) free.
Grape vines can also be propagated using eye cuttings. These are shorter than standard hardwood cuttings (having only one bud, or ‘eye’), and are used commercially to produce a large number of plants. Only attempt these if you are confident, as longer cuttings have more buds to rely on for rooting.
Clean and store bamboo canes in the shed (or other dry place) to ensure they're still in good condition for next year.
Pest & disease watch
Spray peaches and nectarines against peach leaf curl just as the leaves begin to fall. Trees can then be covered with polythene supported on wooden posts, to prevent re-infection by spores carried in rain droplets.
Trap winter moths by placing grease bands around fruit trees. Tree stakes will also need grease-banding if they provide a route up into the branches..
Collect and dispose of fallen apples and pears affected with brown rot. Pick off any affected fruit that remains on the tree (otherwise the fruit becomes mummified and forms a source of infection for next year).
Do not let fallen apple and pear leaves infected with scab or European pear rust lie on the ground at the base of the tree. Garden hygiene is crucial in the control of these problems.
Winter pruning of fruit trees and bushes can start towards the end of the month, and gives you the opportunity to inspect your plants carefully. Any signs of canker or staining within the wood (a possible sign of infection) can be investigated and/or controlled as necessary.
Poor winter drainage (e.g. on clay soils) can cause fruit trees and bushes to suffer, and may lead to the development of Phytophthora root rots. Mulching, installation of drainage nearby, and any digging possible without disturbing the plants’ roots, will help to improve the health of trees and bushes suffering in this way. Contractors can even be brought in to inject compressed air or nitrogen into the soil to loosen compacted soil.
Check stored fruit regularly; any rotten ones should be removed promptly to prevent spread of disease.
Place mouse controls near stored fruit.
Remove all remaining plant debris from the vegetable patch or allotment. Do not compost any diseased material; burn or bin it instead.
Rabbits deer and squirrels can be pests, particularly as the weather gets colder, gnawing the bark of fruit trees and bushes, and eating windfalls and harvests left outside to cure.
Vegetables
Order seed catalogues for next year, if you haven't already done so.
Harvest leeks. They can be heeled in horizontally into a shallow trench outside the back door, for easy access.
You may have other vegetables ready for harvest: Jerusalem artichokes, winter cabbage, spinach, Swiss chard, kohl rabi and radishes can all still be cropped.
Cauliflowers can be harvested, or left in situ with the leaves snapped and folded down over the curds to protect them.
Lift and store root crops such as carrots, beetroot, turnips and swedes.
Parsnips can be left in the ground until needed, or lifted and then buried in a shallow trench for easy access when needed. They taste better when frosted. Make sure to mark the trench.
Celeriac can also be left in the ground for a bit, but do protect them from the cold with a thick mulch of straw, bracken, or other suitable material.
If you have Brussels sprouts ready for harvesting, pick the largest sprouts from the bottom of the stalk first.
Stake any Brussels sprouts stalks that look leggy and vulnerable to wind rock.
Dig up chicory roots to be forced. Pot them up after removing foliage and position them in a dark warm place. The tasty chicons will appear in three to six weeks.
Seakale can be forced as well, but is best forced outside. An upturned pot or cardboard box/tube works well.
Sow over wintering broad beans (mild areas only) outside or under cloches where the soil is well drained, or in pots in an unheated greenhouse in cold districts. Harvests should be marginally earlier than the first spring sowings.
Plant garlic cloves in modules inside a cold frame, or outdoors in mild areas in its final position (free-draining soils and low rainfall areas only).
Clear late-season debris off the vegetable plots, and dispose of it as advised below in pest & disease watch.
Clean and store bamboo canes in the shed or other dry place to ensure they're still in good condition for next year.
Dig over, incorporating well-rotted organic matter if available and weed vacant areas of the vegetable plot. Once they are fully wetted by winter rain, cover them with thick black polythene or other opaque covering, and leave them until next season, when they will be easy to prepare for planting and sowing.
After digging, you may want to mulch.
Winter rye can still be sown as a green manure well into November.
Now is a good time to get ahead and prepare new asparagus beds for planting up in the spring. Plenty of organic matter and grit will help to improve drainage to the level required by asparagus. A raised bed could be a good investment on heavy clay soil, to make it more asparagus friendly.
Pest & disease watch
Ensure that crops remaining in the ground, and new sowings under cloches, are protected from mice. Cloches should be securely closed, and traps, bait, or ultrasonic devices nearby may be of some help.
Pigeons are serious pests of brassicas and other vegetables. Cloches, frames of netting or fleece, and metal cages will help to keep them away from vulnerable crops.
Remove any yellowed leaves on Brussels sprouts and other brassicas. This will prevent the development of grey mould and brassica downy mildew.
Remove all remaining plant debris from the vegetable plot. Do not compost any diseased material such as blight-infected potatoes, onions suffering from white rot and any crops with rust. Burn or bin the diseased material, or bury it very deeply in the ground.
Digging over the soil in winter exposes soil pests to frost and bird predators. Frost will help improve soil structure.
Place mouse controls near stored fruit and vegetables.
Regularly check stores and remove rotting and mouldy specimens.
Herbs
Place cloches over tender herbs, or those sensitive to excess rain, and protect them against winter wet and cold.
You could also pot up some plants, bringing them into the kitchen for easy winter use.
Pest & disease watch
Botrytis (fluffy grey mould) and fungal leaf spots can cause problems, particularly on Mediterranean herbs, such as rosemary, sage and thyme, which can get too wet over winter. Gravel mulches, cloches and improving soil drainage by cultivation, and installation of drains where necessary, will all help to prevent this.
Root and stem rots, and excessive woodiness at the base, can be problematic for herbs where drainage and/or ventilation are insufficient over the winter. Think stony, sandy soil and Mediterranean conditions, and aim to recreate these in your herb garden.
Basil will not survive outside during the winter, so bring it into the greenhouse or heated conservatory to protect it from the cold. Keep pinching off any flower heads that appear, to keep the plant focussed on foliage production.
Flower garden
Order seed catalogues for next year’s bedding and perennials, if not already done.
Plant tulip bulbs this month. Some tulips persist year to year, some perform less well and are treated as bedding, and replaced every year.
It is not too late to research and order summer-flowering bulbs for planting in the spring or during the winter.
Lily bulbs can still be planted in pots this month (if available). They can either be brought inside next spring to ‘force’ them into an early display, or left outside to flower naturally in summer.
Last chance to plant out winter bedding. You could try wallflowers, forget-me-nots, Bellis, Primula, Viola (winter pansies) and other spring bedding plants, planting them into well- prepared ground, or pots of suitable compost. Water them if no rain is forecast, using stored rain or recycled water wherever possible.
Now is a good time to plant new herbaceous perennials, as the soil is still warm, but moister than it was during the summer.
Continue to cut down faded herbaceous perennials and add these to the compost heap.
Penstemons are best left as-is (except for deadheading) until the spring, when they can be cut back further. In mild areas they can carry on flowering well into the late autumn and early winter. The old faded stems will help to protect the crowns from cold. Mulching over the crowns in colder areas will also help.
Ornamental grasses and bamboos can be cut back and tidied up at this time of year, but leave those that still look attractive, as the bleached stems can add structure, movement and interest to an otherwise quiet winter garden, and will be good shelter for wildlife. Grasses look beautiful when clothed in hoar frost.
It is still a good time to lift and divide overgrown clumps of herbaceous perennials. This can improve shape, vigour and flowering, as well as increasing your stocks of favourite plants.
Lift and store dahlias, cannas and tuberous bedding begonias that have been hit by the first frosts. Only in mild areas can dahlias and cannas be left to overwinter in the ground, covering the crowns with a protective layer of straw or bracken, but they may come into flower very late the following year as a consequence of cold weather. Begonias should always be brought in, dried out, and stored in a similar way as for dahlias.
Remove stakes and other supports as final late-flowering herbaceous plants die down for the winter.
Especially in colder areas, apply an autumn mulch to protect plants that are borderline hardy such as Agapanthus, Kniphofia and Phygelius. The plants’ own leaves, e.g. Kniphofia, can be tied up and used as protection for the crowns underneath.
Protect alpines from the wet, if you have not done so already. Ones with woolly or silvery leaves are most vulnerable. Sheltering them from rain, ensuring good ventilation, and picking fallen leaves and weeds from the plant mats will help keep them in top form. Any bare patches can be covered with compost to encourage plant spread into those areas.
Make sure that you have not forgotten any of your tender plants and bulbs - they need to be brought inside or into a heated greenhouse over the winter. Abutilon, Gazania, Lantana, and the tender bulbs of Galtonia and Tigridia are all suitable examples, as are half-hardy fuchsias, which are best allowed to dry out somewhat, drop their leaves, and have a dormant period over winter. Just keep them alive with gentle heat in the glasshouse, or by placing them indoors in a cool room. They will reward you next spring with strong growth when awoken by renewed feeding and watering.
Hellebores rarely flower naturally by Christmas, despite their common name of Christmas rose. They can be encouraged to flower a little earlier, if you want, by covering them with cloches, potting them up and bringing them into a warm greenhouse, or placing them on a windowsill inside the house.
Large tubs that are at risk of cracking in the frost should be covered with bubble wrap, hessian or fleece, to insulate them over the winter.
Raise patio containers onto feet or bricks to avoid them sitting in the winter wet.
Tidy up leaves from around borders. They can be added to the compost heap, or placed in separate bins to make leafmould. Some leaves, such as plane and sycamore, are slow to break down, and can delay you using your compost if you mix them into the general heap. Leafmould makes an excellent soil improver, and can also be used as a seed-sowing medium.
Root cuttings can be taken now and throughout the winter. Papaver (perennial poppies), Verbascum (mullein) and Phlox are suitable examples.
Dig new flower beds as the weather allows. Don't work on them when it's very wet, as walking on sodden soil can cause compaction.
In mild weather, weeds will still appear. Hoe regularly to keep them in check.
Wet September and Octiober weather will have made many clay soils unworkeable until spring. In these cases mulching will help to improve and maintain soil structure.
Weedkillers are only effective in mild areas. So if you missed the spring and early autumn application periods, you may still be able to spray in warm regions of the UK. Products containing diquat will not kill weed roots but remove foliage and clear weeds even in cool, dull wet weather. They are non-selective, however, and other plants must be protected.
Now can be a good time to dig up perennial weeds with long tap roots, such as dandelions and mallow, from newly cultivated areas. Clay soils, in particular, can be more workable in autumn, as they are no longer baked hard, but not yet sodden and sticky with winter wet. Mulching will help to improve the soil structure.
Pest & disease watch
Watch out for downy mildew and black spot on winter pansies. Remove any infected leaves and destroy badly affected plants. To avoid the build-up of diseases, it is best not to plant pansies in the same place year after year.
Check chrysanthemums regularly for signs of white rust and treat where necessary.
Look out for crown rot and brown rots (sclerotinia) on died down perennials, especially if you are on a clay or poorly-drained soil.
Be aware that many diseases will overwinter in the soil, or on plant debris. Antirrhinum rust and Delphinium black blotch, as well as sclerotinia, will lay dormant and re-infect plants when they come up the following year. It may be necessary to replant new specimens in another place if the problem is severe.
Michaelmas daisy mites on Aster novi-belgii cultivars can be a problem. Other asters, such as Aster novae-angliae cultivars and Aster ericoides cultivars, have more resistance.
Grey mould or Botrytis can be problematic in wet weather.
Do not feed plants this late in the season, as they are no longer growing and the nutrients may be washed into rivers and streams by winter rain.
Remember garden hygiene at this time of year - regular clearance of fallen leaves and debris will do much to prevent the spread and overwintering of pests and diseases, reducing your problems next year.
Digging the soil, especially bare patches or newly cultivated land, will expose pest larvae and eggs to birds and frosts, as well as clearing weeds and improving soil structure. Don’t leave soil uncovered for too long, however, as it runs the risk of erosion and washing away of valuable nutrients. Black polythene sheeting will protect it in the absence of planting or mulch.
Glasshouse, conservatory and houseplants
Pot up Hippeastrum (amaryllis) bulbs, and bring them back into active growth with regular watering and feeding. They should give you beautiful flowers for the festive season.
Reduce watering and feeding of houseplants as the days shorten.
Stand tropical houseplants on trays of wet gravel to counteract the drop in humidity when the central heating comes on. Grouping them together also helps to create a humid microclimate around your houseplants.
Check any bulbs (e.g. hyacinths and ‘Paper White’ daffodils), being forced in darkness into early growth. When they have made about 2.5cm (1in) growth, bring them into a light, cool room or frost-free greenhouse to grow on. When flower buds appear, they can be brought into warmer rooms to provide a seasonal display.
Cacti and succulents need a period of relative dormancy over the winter: keep them barely moist, and do not feed. Resume normal care next spring to bring them back into active growth and flowering.
Christmas cacti can be managed in the same way as other cacti, or in reverse, for flowering at Easter or Christmas respectively.
Clivia benefit similarly from a rest period over winter.
Pelargoniums can be cut back, de-leaved, watered less, not fed, and kept relatively dormant and just moist, over the winter. Re-potting, watering and feeding in the spring will bring them back into active growth. They must be kept at around 10°C (50°F) while dormant.
Cyclamen can be sown now, with a bottom heat of 12-15°C (54-60°F). They will need about 14 months to produce flowers. See The RHS Propagating Plants by Alan Toogood, ISBN 0-7513-0365-8 for further information.
Lily-of-the-valley (Convallaria) can be dug up, potted and forced in the greenhouse at this time of year. Rhizomes that are kept in a frost-free greenhouse over winter will stay in active growth, but given a little heat, they will be ready to flower shortly after replanting in the garden next spring.
Heat &/or insulation will be needed to keep the greenhouse frost free. A fan or paraffin heater should do the trick in small glasshouses. Maintaining higher temperatures will need more careful planning, and a bettergreenhouse heating system. Greenhouse insulation can help keep out the frost from the whole, or from a section, of the greenhouse.
Complete cleaning out spent crops from the greenhouse, if not yet done. Clean and disinfect the greenhouse structures with Jeyes Fluid or Citrox.
Make sure you have removed all shading paint from the greenhouse panes, in order to maximise light levels in the darker months of the year. If applying glasshouse insulation, to attach it only to the sides and north facing roofs to let in as much light as possible.
If you enjoy working in your glasshouse over the winter, then consider installing greenhouse lighting to make this possible even on dull days and during the evening or early morning.
Pest & disease watch
Cyclamen are prone to grey mould at this time of year.
Maintaining some air movement in the glasshouse or conservatory, even when the weather is cold, will help to reduce problems with fungal diseases such as Botrytis (fluffy grey mould). Opening vents slightly (but not enough to create damaging draughts) in the morning, and then closing them in the early afternoon to conserve heat, will provide enough ventilation to help keep fungal problems at bay.
Keep an eye out for pests, as they may become more active in mild spells during the autumn.
Slugs are often found lurking underneath pots and other protected areas.
Many pests can overwinter in nooks and crannies in the glasshouse structure (especially in wooden houses), and in the bark of woody houseplants and vines. Mealybugs and scale insect nymphs are commonly found and should be picked off. Grape vines often have their old bark stripped off before winter, to reduce the number of hiding places for pests like these.
When bringing plants into the house or greenhouse, check them carefully for any pests and diseases they may have picked up in the garden. Unhappy looking plants can always be tipped out of the pot to examine their rootballs for signs of over or under watering, or for soil pests like vine weevil larvae.
Regularly pick off and sweep up yellowing or dead leaves, and faded flowers, before disease problems develop and spread.
This is a good time to clean all your old pots and seed trays, so that they are ready for next spring’s flurry of activity. Thorough cleaning will reduce pest and disease problems, and will make your propagation and sowing yields much greater.
Check that the greenhouse heater is still working, if you have not done so already. Replace any spent wicks or broken parts on paraffin heaters, and get electric or gas heaters serviced if necessary.
Take care when watering house- and greenhouse plants - you shouldn’t wet the leaves, as they take a long time to dry in the cool November weather, and dampness can encourage fungal diseases. It is best to water in the morning, giving leaves time to dry off before the night.
Trees, shrubs, roses, climbers and hedges
Pruning and renovation of many deciduous trees, shrubs and hedges can be carried out from now throughout the dormant season. It is easier to see what you are doing when the branches have no leaves. Suitable examples are Fagus and Corylus. Exceptions are tender plants, and also Prunus species (e.g. ornamental cherries, plums and almonds), as these are vulnerable to silver leaf if pruned in the autumn or winter. Evergreens are best left until the spring.
Lightly prune bush roses now, if not done already, as reducing their height will prevent wind-rock. Roses are generally shallow rooted and can become loose in the soil if buffeted by strong winds.
Climbing roses should be pruned now at the very latest, and should preferable have been done much earlier in the autumn.
Shrubs normally pruned hard in the spring - such as Buddleja davidii, Cornus alba and Lavatera - can be cut back by half now, to prevent wind rock and neaten their appearance.
If your trees are too large for you to manage the pruning alone, then you may need a tree surgeon. Otherwise take care not to damage the tree when sawing off thicker branches.
Bare-root deciduous hedging plants, trees and shrubs become available this month. They need to be planted promptly, before they dry out. They can be heeled into the soil for a short period if conditions are not suitable for planting.
It is an ideal time to plant roses. Avoid planting in areas where roses were previously growing otherwise new introductions may suffer from replant diseases (rose sickness).
You can still order and plant containerised trees and shrubs, and large semi-mature specimens for planting later in the winter, when bare-root plants are no longer available.
Protect newly planted trees, hedges and shrubs from wind and cold. A temporary netting windbreak is sufficient where there is no natural shelter. Straw, bracken, or something similar can be used to pack around deciduous plants and protect them from frost. A wooden frame with clear polythene stretched over it can do a similar job without blocking light from evergreens, but don’t let the polythene touch the foliage, as condensation at these points could freeze, or cause rots.
This is also a good time to transplant trees and shrubs growing in unsuitable positions. However, if they are more than a couple of years old, you are unlikely to be able to remove an intact enough rootball to ensure the plant’s survival in its new position, and you may be best advised to leave well alone. There are contractors who specialise in moving established mature specimens, but they are not cheap. For more information, RHS members can contact the Members’ Advisory Service, and non-members can try the local Yellow Pages.
Tie wall shrubs and climbers onto their supports to protect them from wind damage. Any growth that refuses to be trained in this way can be pruned off.
Check tree stakes and ties are secure and will withstand the winter weather; ensure that ties are not strangling trunks or branches - they may need loosening.
Take hardwood cuttings of ornamental shrubs such as Cornus, Euonymus, Forsythia, Hydrangea, Ilex and Salix.
Check hardwood cuttings taken last year. They may need planting out or potting on, and any diseased ones should be removed to prevent this spreading to other plants.
Soft and greenwood cuttings taken earlier this year should also be checked for disease.
If there is snow in your area, then you may need to brush this off the branches of conifers. Heavy snowfall can splay branches and spoil the shape of the tree.
Tree and shrub seeds and berries can still be harvested and sown, once they are ripe.
Place fallen leaves on the compost heap or into separate pens for rotting down into leafmould. Shredding them first with a shredder or mower will help them break down quicker.
Pest & disease watch
Garden hygiene helps greatly in the prevention of disease carry-over from one year to the next. It is always a good idea to rake up and destroy (i.e. do not compost) any infected leaves. Diseases such as black spot on roses,scab on apples and pears and quince leaf blight can all be controlled to some extent in this way.
Toadstools are often visible at this time of year, and many people are concerned that they may be finding honey fungus. Honey fungus fruiting bodies (toadstools) usually appear on, or at the bases of, affected trees. Similar looking toadstools in beds or lawns are more likely to be harmless saprophytic fungi which live purely on dead material and pose no threat to garden plants.
Phytophthora root rots can cause dieback on mature trees and shrubs. Wet winter weather and poorly-drained soils are likely to encourage this problem on susceptible woody plants.
Coral spot is often noticed once the leaves have fallen from deciduous hedges, shrubs and trees. This problem can be connected with poor ventilation and congested, un-pruned twiggy growth (as found inside clipped hedges), but it is more a sign of unsuitable conditions than a serious pathogen in itself.
Holly leaf blight is still uncommon, but can be spread in wet weather.
Rabbits, deer and squirrels can be a nuisance as the weather gets colder, gnawing the bark from shrubs and trees. Placing guards around new woody plants are advisable.
Damage from bay suckers may still be evident, although the pests will have been and gone. However, it is a good idea to remove affected leaves if there are only a few, and to take note to look out for damage next spring (usually around May) - the problem should then be treated promptly.
When pruning trees and shrubs, take the opportunity to examine branches for signs of disease. Small cankers, dieback, and rotten, hollow stumps at the centre of old shrub bases, are best removed early on, before they spread.
Lawns and meadows
Rake fallen leaves off lawns before they block out light and moisture from the grass.
Grass will continue to grow in temperatures above 5°C (41°F), so if the weather remains mild it may be necessary to trim the lawn with a mower. Ensure the cut is 3-5mm higher than in summer to prevent turf stress. On average, this means a cutting height of around 4cm (1.5in).
Mowing will help to deal with any annual weeds that have sprung up in new lawns sown earlier in the autumn.
If putting lawnmowers away for winter ensure they are clean and dry before storing. Also remember to drain fuel as unleaded petrol doesn't keep, and may cause problems next year when trying to start up the machines.
In mild parts of the country, you can still carry out autumn lawn care i.e. scarification, aeration and top dressing as long as the soil isn't waterlogged. This will improve the lawn’s performance next year. Don't do this in frosty weather, very wet weather or snow.
Avoid walking on lawns on frosty mornings. It can damage the grass and often leads to brown footprint-shaped marks.
It is now too late to sow grass seed, but new lawns can still be laid from turf if the weather is not too cold.
Don’t feed the lawn with left-over summer feeds. These contain too much nitrogen, which stimulates lush growth; at this time of year, lush growth will be vulnerable to diseases. Use an autumn lawn feed, which contains more potassium and phosphorous, to encourage hardiness and root growth instead.
It is too late to apply lawn weedkillers now - effectiveness will be much reduced. A final mow will keep weeds in hand until the spring, when weedkillers can again be used.
Troubleshooting
Toadstools often appear on lawns at this time of year. They generally do very little damage but are best removed if small children are present. Most are harmless saprophytic fungi.
Some fungi such as fairy rings can lead to reduced availability of water and nutrients to the grass, resulting in a change in colour of affected lawn areas. Lawn maintenance can help deter the occurrence of such fungal problems.
Watch your lawn for signs of waterlogging as the weather gets wetter. You may be able to remedy this with some maintenance - either now, next spring, or the following autumn, according to the weather.
Fusarium patch (snow mould) may be a problem in wet weather, particularly on overfed and lush lawns that have been left a bit too long.
Algae can be a problem on lawns where there is poor drainage, excessive shade, or under the drip-line of trees.
Worm casts can still be a problem in some areas.
If your lawn suffers dieback from treading during the wet, muddy season, then you may wish to lay stepping-stones through it to allow easy access across it without causing damage. Stones can be laid at a low enough level to avoid interference with mowing.
Ponds
Regularly shake off leaves from nets over ponds to prevent them from building up.
Rake out fallen leaves from ponds that are not netted.
Stop feeding fish once the cold weather sets in.
Remove the last of the dead foliage from floating plants, such as waterlilies, and from marginal plants that overhang the edge of the pond. All those that are tender, such as water hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes) and lotus (Nelumbo), should already have been brought into a frost-free greenhouse for storage in trays of deep mud or damp sand, or even in a bucket of water, until the risk of frost has passed.
You can still divide hardy waterlilies and pond plants, whether floating and marginal, in order to increase stocks or in order to control their vigour.
Overgrown marginal plants can just be cut back, if further stocks are not required. A maximum of 50% of the water’s surface should be taken up with planting.
If barley straw bales or pads were used to reduce algae during the summer months, these can now be removed and added to the compost heap. Let them sit by the edge of the pond for 24 hours before composting, so that pond insects can find their way back into the water.
Give winter protection to Gunnera by cutting off old leaves and placing them over the crown of the plants. Use gloves when handling Gunnera foliage as it is covered in vicious spines.
Zantedeschia (arum lilies) are not fully hardy, and can be protected by cutting them back and covering them with a layer of straw or bracken. Hardier varieties should survive like this in all but the coldest regions. In cold regions, or with more tender varieties, the plants should be brought into the greenhouse as described above.
Remove submersible pumps, fountains and lights if not already done. They can be cleaned, checked, sent for servicing if necessary, and stored safely for the winter.
Take precautions if there is a risk of your pond freezing over as this can be fatal for fish and other pond life.
You may wish to make your pond more wildlife friendly.
Troubleshooting
Waterlilies can be prone to fungal problems such as crown rot and leaf spot, so nip any problems in the bud by dealing with them promptly. Remove affected leaves, reduce watersplash from fountains, and, if necessary, re-pot the whole plant in fresh compost after first removing all rotten looking bits of root, stem and leaf.
Watch out for hungry herons - they will deplete fish stocks quickly. Nylon strings strung across the edges of the pond (where they often wait for fish) can deter them from approaching the water. They need to be 15cm (6in) from the ground and 15cm in from the edge of the pond.
Wildlife gardening
Jobs for the month
- Clean out the birdbath (see below)
- Keep the birdbath topped up
- Replenish birdfeeders, or hang one if you have not done so in previous seasons (see below). All feeds, including peanuts, are safe, as the breeding season is now over
- Clean out nesting boxes so that birds can shelter inside them during the winter
- Leave some seedheads standing, rather than cutting them back, to provide food and shelter for wildlife
- Leave mature ivy uncut if possible, as it is an excellent late source of nectar for insects
- Make a leaf pile for hibernating mammals and ground-feeding birds overwintering in the UK
- Try building a hedgehog hibernation box (see below)
Birds
Don’t let bird-‘flu fears stop you from enjoying birds in your garden. You can watch the behaviour of birds without coming into any physical contact with them. Wear gloves, apron or overall and a paper face-mask when re-filling the bird feeder, scrubbing out the bird bath, or attending to domestic birds, and the risk of infection will be so low as to be almost negligible. Obviously, if you live in a high-risk area where the H5N1 strain of bird ‘flu has been found, or in a restricted zone as designated by DEFRA, then you should take extra precautions as advised (please see www.defra.gov.uk/animalh/diseases/notifiable/disease/ai/).
Winter migrants to the UK are now arriving from colder, northern regions. You may see geese and ducks arriving in droves, and you may spot redwings, bramblings and fieldfares in your own garden.
You may spot jays carrying off acorns to bury in underground winter stores. They can relocate these stores even late in the winter, when germinating shoots become a memory aid for marking buried stashes.
A bird bath can be a vital source of drinking water for birds during the winter. Ensure that yours is topped up, and kept free of ice. Models are available to attach to windows, walls and sills, if you are limited for space. Be aware of hygiene in the bird bath, especially with the current concern about Asian bird flu. Changing the water regularly, and scrubbing the bath out with a mild detergent (available from bird food suppliers) can help to prevent the spread of disease.
Hang bird feeders if you have not had them out already through previous seasons. There are many models available, designed to help keep out rats, cats, pigeons and squirrels, or to fit onto walls, windows, windowsills and balconies. Hang the bird feeder over a paved or decked area, which can be swept clear of debris regularly, in order to reduce potential problems with rats scavenging for morsels dropped or scattered by the birds.
There is a huge range of birdfoods available on the market, but household scraps and fallen fruit from the garden will do just as well. Choices include wildbird seed mixes, black sunflower seeds (the birds will remove the outside casing, and the inner seed is soft), mild grated cheese, sultanas, raisins and currants (best soaked overnight), pinhead oatmeal, apples, pears and other fresh fruits from the garden (blemished ones are fine). Alternatively, you can buy fat balls or live mealworms and waxworms from garden centres and specialist bird food suppliers. A budget option is to hang pieces of bacon from strings tied to tree branches. The greater the variety of food that you supply, the greater variety of birds you are likely to see in your garden.
Hanging feeders attract species such as finches, tits and sparrows. Bird tables attract robins, house and tree sparrows, doves, pigeons, bullfinches, greenfinches, chaffinches and bramblings. Food scattered on the ground, and leaf piles full of sheltering insects attract blackbirds, thrushes, dunnocks and wrens.
Bird tables are best sited a few feet clear of cover or high vegetation, so that cats and other predators cannot launch themselves onto unsuspecting feeding birds. Tables can be quite close to windows or patios, as many birds get used to human activity, and are not put off by us.
Urban gardens are often particularly attractive to birds during cold weather because of the warmth stored inside cities.
Shrubs and trees that still have berries at this time of year (such as Sorbus, Berberis and Pyracantha) will provide a valuable natural source of food for birds in your garden at this time of year. Red and orange berries are reportedly more popular with birds than are yellow berries, which they tend to leave until last.
Clear out bird nesting boxes as early in the month as is possible - birds will soon be looking for winter roosts in which to keep warm. Old nesting material can harbour parasites, which will be of harm to new residents.
When choosing new nesting boxes, consider their design before buying. Woodcrete (a mixture of concrete and sawdust) can be a better material than wood, as it is cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. Different designs may be more or less suitable for particular species, and it is worth doing a little research. Bird food catalogues often have very helpful information about the products available, as do the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (www.rspb.org.uk), the British Trust for Ornithology (www.bto.org.uk) and The Wildlife Trusts (www.wildlifetrusts.org).
Make sure to site nesting boxes appropriately; north-, north east- or north west-facing positions are often best, as south- or west-facing positions can get too hot unless they are well shaded.
Insects
Bug life should be encouraged. Without insects and other invertebrates, there would be no birds and mammals, and many flowers would fail to pollinate, set seed or produce fruit. Bugs help to keep each other in check. It is often when one pest in the food chain is killed with chemicals that others are suddenly free to multiply unchecked, so creating further problems for the gardener.
Bee homes are now widely available. Initial reports suggest that nesting boxes for colony-forming bees (such as bumble and honey bees) are not always effective. Homes for solitary bees (such as mason bees), usually made from tubes and tunnels in boxes, or cut out of blocks of wood, are more successful. Models with a backing are more successful than those open at both ends. This kind of bee house is easy to make yourself at home - even an old tin can filled with drinking straws will do the job. South facing positions, hanging at chest height or above, are best. The boxes can be left out over winter, or they can be taken down to avoid bees being eaten by predators such as birds.
Gardens with nooks and crannies, and a few areas where debris is allowed to accumulate (perhaps a woodland area or a meadow within a more formal design), are often more insect-friendly than gardens composed entirely of paving, pots, lawn and bedding.
Put out log and twig piles made from old prunings and felled tree branches. These provide valuable shelter for wildlife, and can be made into attractive features by planting up with ferns, primroses, or other suitable plants. A site well away from the house should ensure unwanted creepy crawlies do not stray into domestic areas.
Piles of slabs or rockery stones act as a suitable wildlife habitat, as do old bales of straw or hay.
Mammals, reptiles and amphibians
Foxes continue their nightly foraging, and are often pests in both urban and country areas as wild food sources become scarcer.
Mammals are going into hibernation this month. You may see squirrels building up their nut stores, or discover a hedgehog making its winter home under a pile of old leaves or debris.
If you are making a Guy Fawkes’ night bonfire, then do check that your pile of material for burning has not been colonised by hibernating toads or hedgehogs. Traditional festivals excepted, it is best to compost waste rather than burn it. Woody matter can be shredded before composting, and diseased matter can simply be placed in the rubbish.
You could try constructing a hedgehog hibernation box to encourage this. Some wildlife enthusiasts have reported success with a constructed wooden box buried under a pile of old leaves. A small entrance hole (10-12sq cm/4-5sq in), and a covered tunnel leading to the entrance, will help to prevent foxes and other predators from raiding the nest. A tunnel can easily be constructed using old bricks with a wooden plank as a cover. You can then watch the hedgehogs come and go from a known location.
Hedgehog food is available for sale. It is not a good idea to feed hedgehogs with bread and milk, as this is not their natural diet. Dog food can be another alternative.
Corrugated iron or plastic laid on the soil can provide warm tunnels for small reptiles, amphibians and mammals to hibernate in. Once it becomes covered with moss , algae, weeds and earth, even metal retains heat through the winter, providing a warm and secure hiding place.
Bat nesting boxes are increasingly available, but it is best to research different models, as some are much more effective than others. Woodcrete is again a good choice of material, and the best comparative designs are still being tested. Positioning of the boxes is key - groups of boxes work best, and they may only be effective in areas where there are few other suitable roosting places. The Bat Conservation Trust.
Plants for wildlife
Mature ivy becomes shrub-like, developing larger leaves and a shrub-like, rather than climbing, habit. It flowers late in the season, so is an excellent source of nectar for butterflies, hoverflies and other insects.
Hedges, including non-natives and conifers, are a good resource for wildlife, providing shelter, nesting sites and food.
Deciduous trees and hedges, particularly natives like oak or coppiced hazel, are excellent wildlife choices, providing many insect breeding sites in addition to food and shelter for a range of wildlife. Deciduous trees, also support more plant life underneath them than do evergreens, and the bulbs, annuals and perennials underneath them provide knock-on benefits for wildlife.
Don’t deadhead roses that produce hips, and delay their pruning as long as is possible without exposing the plants to risk of root-rock. The colourful hips are a useful source of food for wildlife, as well as being decorative.
Leaving perennials uncut once they have finished flowering can provide food and shelter for wildlife in the winter. Many perennials (such as Agapanthus and Rudbeckia) have visually pleasing seed heads, and will not be significantly depleted by being allowed to set seed - if you have thin soil, then feed them during, and just after flowering, to prevent any weakening. Deciduous ornamental grasses are usually best left uncut until late winter or early spring, as their died-back but still fountain-like stems both look good and provide shelter for wildlife over the winter.
If you are planting new trees, shrubs and perennials, it is a good idea to mix in some native plants with the exotic or cultivated specimens. Although many insects will happily feed and breed on a selection of plants (native or otherwise), others are fussier, and prefer natives, particularly when it comes to breeding. A wide diversity of plants encourages a wide diversity of insects, and this is likely to be the best recipe for a rich mix of mammals, amphibians and birds in your garden. Bear in mind, though, that a single insect-attracting plant is less likely to attract wildlife than is a whole bank of them, whether you choose a mixture of different insect-attracting species or make a block planting of a single insect-friendly species.
Consider, before hacking back ivy that has got out of control, that it might be best to wait until it has finished flowering (usually towards the end of the month). The flowers are a valuable source of food for bees and other insects at this time of year.
Adopt a similarly cautious approach when pruning hedges: waiting an extra couple of weeks before pruning informal, berrying, hedges such as Viburnum opulus or Crataegus (hawthorn), can mean food being available to wildlife for that extra period.
You may wish to identify a suitable part of the garden to leave untouched as a wildlife area. A small patch behind a shed is perfectly fine if you’re worried about it looking untidy.
Meadows
Established meadows can be cut as normal grass over the winter, but keep them higher than you would a lawn. In mild areas, a final cut in November may be necessary, as grasses and perennials can keep growing during mild spells. Remember, though, that long grass is a place of shelter for wildlife.
It is too late to sow seed or plant plugs for a new meadow. But you may wish to plan an annual cornfield display for next spring.
Recently planted or sown meadows will not need mowing until six weeks after the start of the spring growing season.
General
You could plan and dig a wildlife pond over the winter.
Now could be a good time to build a compost heap or a pen for collecting autumn leaves to turn into leafmould, if you do not have these already.
Garden structures & tools
When putting lawnmowers and hedgetrimmers away for the winter, ensure that they are clean and dry before storing. Also remember to drain out any fuel first, as unleaded petrol doesn't keep, and may cause problems next year when trying to start up the machines.
You may want to send all machines in for a service while they are in less frequent use.
Ensure all standpipes and irrigation lines are drained, to avoid damage caused by water freezing inside them.
Clean and sharpen secateurs ready for pruning deciduous trees and shrubs over the winter. Special ceramic tools are available to allow awkwardly shaped and angled blades to be sharpened with ease. Spare springs and replacement blades can also be purchased for more expensive models.
Now is a good time to consider installing garden lighting, water pipes and drainage, and to make plans for garden projects.
Fix lights to sheds, greenhouses and outhouses, so that you can garden on wet days and in the evenings. It is now illegal for amateurs to hardwire new fixtures into the mains, but many lighting kits are available which plug into house circuits, and include appropriate armoured cables.
Garden contractors are often short of work in winter, and are therefore available to do major tasks such as paving, fence building and pond digging.
Be aware that decking and stone slabs can become slippery in wet weather, with slimy algal growth exacerbating the situation. Chicken wire stapled onto the decking, temporary mats, and regular cleaning with Jeyes Fluid or Armillatox can all help to reduce the risk of harm.
Clean out water butts if not yet done. They will then be free to catch the extra rainfall at this time of year. Water butt are back in stock after the surge in demand this year and now is the ideal time to install extra ones.
Gardening for children
Involve your children in protecting plants from winter cold with packing, mulch or fleece. They can enjoy packing the spaces between stems with straw tugged from bales or bags, and the wrapping of packed plants or cut-down stumps of perennials - whether dahlias or bananas - with mulch, fleece or plastic sheeting. This activity introduces the concept of plants needing protection - something that children have rarely thought about, and which can be appreciated in a very concrete way through this activity. Even the most hardened of plant-tramplers can show consideration when actively involved in the process of plant protection.
Take your children toadstool hunting. Toadstools have fairy-tale connotations that capture the imaginations of small children. You can use this activity to educate them about the risks of eating wild mushrooms, instead encouraging them to notice the many different forms, colours and smells possessed by common garden fungi. If you have silver birches in your garden, you may even find groups of poisonous fly agaric toadstools (the classic fairy-tale toadstool with a red and white spotted cap). Only suggest eating anything if you are very confident with mushroom identification, as many poisonous species appear similar to the mushrooms we commonly buy for cooking.
Involve your children in cleaning out existing and choosing new nest boxes: The idea of a bird, bat, hedgehog or bee home is likely to fascinate children of all ages. Whether you construct a hedgehog hibernation box, a solitary bee home, select bird nesting boxes and feeders from the garden centre, or bring down existing nest boxes for cleaning out, children can be made more aware of natural processes, seasons and garden wildlife through involvement in these tasks. Whether your child prefers poring over catalogue choices, or being outside building animal shelters, there should be a task for all to get involved with when preparing for winter wildlife.
With Guy Fawke’s night and Divali approaching, you may be able to get your children to help you gather prunings from deciduous trees and shrubs, for use in building a bonfire. Although of course it is better to shred healthy woody waste, using it as mulch or on the compost, this is one time of the year when it may be acceptable to make an exception and burn perfectly good garden resources. Children who might otherwise baulk at picking up twigs shed by their parents’ gardening activities may become assiduous helpers when preparing to build a bonfire for a big celebration. Do of course observe sensible health and safety guidelines when building a bonfire in the garden.