Advice
Daffodil blindness and poor flowering
Sometimes clumps of daffodils can grow well initially, but then decline in flowering quality. Daffodil ‘blindness’ (lack of flowers) can be caused by the following main factors.
Narcissus
bulb fly
The larva eats into the bulb’s base, destroying the developing flower bud.
Dry situation
If exposed to drought leaves can die down prematurely before plants have produced flower buds for the following season. In dry weather water weekly for at least six weeks after flowering.
Defoliation
Early defoliation also limits bulb food reserves. Avoid mowing over daffodils growing in grassland until 6 weeks after flowering.
Knotting
Avoid knotting the leaves of daffodils together as this reduces their ability to photosynthesize and may increase the risk of blindness.
Seeding
Seed development wastes energy, so plants need regular dead-heading (removing faded flowers along with the seed capsule). Although some daffodil species (e.g. Narcissus bulbocodium and N. cyclamineus) can seed freely, the many garden hybrids won’t come true from seed.
Nutrition
Often bulbs flower well in their first year then decline rapidly, especially on poorer soils. After flowering apply a high potash liquid feed (e.g. tomato feed) at seven to 14 day intervals for six weeks.
Planting
depth
Plant bulbs two to three times deeper that their height, slightly deeper on light soils. Shallow planting encourages bulbs to divide, producing lots of bulbs too small to flower. Replant small bulbs in more fertile soil (e.g. a vegetable plot) to encourage bulb build-up.
Unsuitability
Some daffodils are more vigorous, and so more suited to naturalising. For this purpose choose those marked in catalogues as suitable for naturalising.
Further information
Conservation and Environment Leaflet - Potentially harmful garden plants
Conservation and Environment Leaflet - Wild flowers and the garden