Advice
RHS Help & Advice
Topiary training
Topiary is the art of cutting of trees and shrubs into ornamental shapes, providing year-round structure and making an impressive statement in the garden whether formal or informal in style
Use in the garden
Often associated with historical gardens, topiary can also be used to create unusual contemporary effects using a wide range of plants.
Common in Italian gardens of the 16th and 17th centuries, topiary was practiced by the Romans and Greeks, and most likely by the Persians before them. The word topiary comes from the Greek words topeia (cord used for tying and training), topos (landscape) and topia (the trompe-l’oeil frescoes common in Greek and Roman villas). Clipped trees added to the effect of these frescoes, and the Latin word topiarius came to refer to both the painter and to the gardener creating such scenes.
Oriental ‘topiary’ traditions developed separately. Japanese cloud pruning sets a completely different mood to the flamboyant creations of European Renaissance.
‘Off-the-shelf’ topiary
Many suppliers sell finished specimens, often imported from Europe. They are expensive, but clearly save much time and labour. Some are acclimatised to Mediterranean conditions, and can suffer on transplanting to the damper British climate. Gardeners may struggle to renovate neglected or unhappy ‘off-the-shelf’ specimens.
Choose a young, well-proportioned specimen with dense, healthy looking growth, especially near the base.
DIY topiary
Creating large specimens takes six to 10 years. Good soil preparation, shelter, full sun and well-drained soil are necessary for even growth. Stake new tree plantings, and leave surrounding space for maintenance access.
Shaping starts when plants are young. Do not remove the leading shoots of Chamaecyparis and x Cupressocyparis cultivars until they reach the desired height. Check shapes regularly from a high viewing point.
Smaller areas
On patios and paths, potted topiary creates screening, privacy and an air of smart formality, complementing equally either Rococo statuary or more classical schemes. Choose a sympathetically shaped pot in style and proportion with the plant, filling it with John Innes compost after covering the drainage holes with crocks. Add a decorative mulch if desired.
Topiary shaping can be done by eye, by using a simple cane template placed over the top or by cutting to a shaped wire framework, through which the plant has been allowed to grow.
Getting the shape right
- Globes: trim a central circular band around the middle before tackling the top and bottom.
- Cones (pyramids and obelisks): create straight ‘corners’ and verticals before tackling the sides and horizontals. This will help prevent one-sidedness. Alternatively, place a wire former over the plant and only start clipping once the plant has grown through. Formers, unlike frames, can be removed once the outline of the shape has developed.
- Spirals: train the main shoot to a central pole, shortening all lateral branches to 10cm in early and late summer. When the plant reaches its desired height, start to clip the foliage to create the lowest coil of the spiral. This should be long and wide, the spirals tightening and shortening up the stem.
- Irregular shapes: follow a wire template, working from the top downwards.
- Large forms: Several, or multistemmed plants may be necessary. Tie shoots into a basic framework, while still young and supple, to ensure there is sufficient growth in all areas. Pinch back tips to encourage branching; train new shoots into gaps.
Cloud pruning: follow the natural shape of the plant, removing selected laterals and exposing main stems. Leave the branch ends untouched, later trimming them into stylised cloud shapes to show off the main stems below.
Keeping in shape
Secateurs can be used for formative pruning only, finishing small-leaved species with sprung topiary shears, and large-leaved species with hand shears. Hedge trimmers cover large areas easily, but leave a coarse finish. A pruning saw and loppers are needed for renovation pruning.
Choosing suitable plants
Small-leaved evergreens will give a fine finish. Among those suitable are: Buxus, Chamaecyparis, x Cupressocyparis, Juniperus, Thuja, Lonicera nitida, Taxus and Myrtus.
Large-leaved evergreens for bigger examples include: Ilex, Laurus, Arbutus, Camellia, Elaeagnus, Osmanthus, Pittosporum, Prunus laurocerasus and Viburnum tinus. Semi-evergreens such as Ligustrum (privet) are a popular choice. Suitable deciduous species are Fagus, Carpinus, Aesculus, Crataegus and some acers.
Maintenance
Trim frequently during formative years. In spring, weed, mulch and apply a controlled-release fertiliser such as Osmocote. Water in dry spells. Brush off snow in winter to prevent splaying of branches. Check ties and stakes often.
Trimming frequency of established specimens varies with each species, its vigour and the level of finish required. Evergreens can be trimmed from late spring to early autumn. A single annual trim may suffice for yew, holly and bay. Box may need one, two or three trims. Privet grows rapidly and may need several trims a year, particularly when used for intricate shapes. Deciduous species should be pruned towards the end of winter, but Fagus sylvatica (beech) and Carpinus betulus (hornbeam) are exceptions; they are pruned in late summer to avoid removing their autumn leaves which they retain throughout winter. Some deciduous species such as Acer campestre and Crataegus species can be pruned lightly in summer as well as winter.
Troubleshooting
Replace broken leaders with suitable topmost shoots. Either use new plants to fill gaps, or peg down lower branches of neighbouring plants, encouraging them to root and fill gaps.
Dieback can be a problem, especially with privet. Hard pruning can help, but replacement may be necessary. Prevent dieback by reducing overhanging shade and apply generous feeding and regular watering. Taxus, Buxus, Ligustrum and most deciduous species tolerate hard pruning.
Maya Albert