Many
climbers root where they ramble so it is no surprise that
most are easy to propagate from cuttings. The semi-ripe wood,
neither hard and woody or soft and delicate, found in late
summer is ideal.
Water plants thoroughly the night before taking cuttings, place cutting material in a plastic bag and keep cool until ready to prepare. Avoid plants with pests or diseases and ones with no non-flowering growth. A light trim can produce suitable non-flowering regrowth ideal for cuttings.
Most
climbers can be propagated from double leaf bud cuttings.
Prepare these by cutting directly above a pair of leaves and
then make a lower cut about halfway between the two leaf joints.
Try this with Campsis, Celastrus, Clematis, Humulus (hops), Hedera (ivy), Lonicera (honeysuckle) and roses.
This is ideal when not much propagating material is available. A refinement for confident gardeners is to slice each leaf bud cutting down the middle, and then treating these as ordinary leaf bud cuttings, doubling the number of cuttings available.
Use
a well-drained, gritty compost and a heated propagator. However,
a pot or seed tray of cuttings placed in a plastic bag will
often do well. White carrier bags are especially effective
under shade outdoors.
Use a rooting compound that contains a fungicide to control rots and moulds. Also be careful in picking over the cuttings for dead material.
Alternatively if plenty of propagating material is available ordinary nodal cuttings can be tried. Use 7.5-15cm (3-6in) long cuttings, cutting above and below a node and root in a heated propagator at about 20-25oC (70-80oF). If in doubt aim for two to four leaves per cutting. If a heated propagator is unavailable use a plastic bag in a warm, but shaded place either in a greenhouse, conservatory or outside.
Any climber that can be propagated by leaf bud cuttings is easy to raise from nodal cuttings, as well as Akebia, Ampelopsis, Jasminium, Parthenocissus, Passiflora, Fallopia (Russian vine) and Trachelospermum (star jasmine).
For some rather tricky climbers cuttings should be taken with material from the base of sideshoots or basal cuttings: Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris, Solanum (potato vine) and Wisteria for example.
Rooting is usually quick - six to eight weeks - but it is best to leave the cuttings until spring in an unheated greenhouse or cold frame, before placing in separate pots. Give each pot its own cane and tie the growth to the cane until the plants are big enough for their final place or growing on in a nursery bed.
If cuttings don’t work, consider layering, and also remember to save seed from species such as Clematis tangutica and Eccremocarpus scaber.