Cultivating apricots

 

New apricot cultivars developed for the UK climate are proving easy to grow, producing generous crops of tasty fruit. Here is advice on growing them successfully.

Establishing apricot trees

Apricots are vigorous, fully winter-hardy trees that will eventually reach 2.5-3m (8-10ft). It is recommended that trees are grown as open bushes, as this method requires little pruning.

When planting, tip back the leader to encourage the development of sideshoots. As the plant grows, remove any crossing and rubbing branches or those that are growing vertically through the centre of the tree. Leave all other branches untouched, as pruning can increase the chance of bacterial canker (below left) or the fungal disease silver leaf (below right) entering wounds.

Because of the threat of silver leaf, pruning should be avoided during winter months when this fungus produces most of its spores. Pruning should therefore be carried out in summer, but not during wet weather, as this is the time bacterial canker will attack fresh wounds, and in severe cases plants can die.

When apricots are grown as an open bush, plan ahead and be prepared to allow plants 5m (16ft) of growing space. Fan-training is recommended where space is at a premium.

Planting and management

There is some debate as to the type of site apricots enjoy. The consensus is that they prefer one that allows good airflow through the branches but is preferably not subjected to cold easterly winds when fruit is developing.

Plant bare-root trees from autumn through to early spring, ideally in a free-draining soil. Apricots enjoy chalk but will not tolerate wet clay soils. It is best not to grow them in containers as they like a good root run.

The three apricot rootstocks that are used are ‘Torinel’, myrobolan and seedling peach. As with many other fruit, these can produce suckers, which should be removed. Keep the area at the base of the trunk free from competing weeds to at least 1m (39in) diameter.

Conventional advice suggests that buds and flowers should be covered with fleece or netting to protect them from frost. This holds true for fan-trained fruit, but is impractical with trees, and commercial orchards find it unnecessary.

A three-year-old tree can produce at least 20 fruits, appearing in clusters on old wood. They should not be thinned. It is important to water when the crop starts to swell and continue right up until harvest. Pick only when the fruit is fully ripe and comes away easily in the hand.

Alexandra Baulkwill and Will Sibley

 

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