Although it is undesirable, sometimes mature plants need to be lifted and moved to new locations. Risks can be minimised if site preparation and basic procedures are followed
Moving any established tree or shrub is risky, regardless how carefully the work is carried out. Any plant will suffer stress when uprooted, which often results in growth being checked. Shrubs such as Magnolia, Rosa, Cytisus, Cistus and Elaeagnus particularly resent root disturbance and can be tricky to move. Young plants transplant fairly well if carefully lifted at the correct time. More established plants will suffer greater stress and require advanced preparation. Consider using a specialist contractor to move mature or large numbers of trees.
Time
Move deciduous plants from late October to mid-March. Move evergreens in October or late March, when the relatively warm soil will allow roots to re-establish quickly.
Plant preparation
Mature specimens require preparation a year in advance. During November to February, while plants are dormant dig a circular trench one spit wide parallel with the branch spread. Back fill the trench with sharp sand to encourage fibrous, feeding root growth which will help the plant to re-establish quickly.
Additionally, prune out approximately one-third of the plant’s wood.
Site preparation
Mark out the expected root spread plus an extra 50cm (20in) and dig the area to 30cm (12in) depth. Fork over the bottom of the hole, adding some organic matter.
Lifting and moving
Water the soil well the day before moving.
Determine the extent of the root spread with exploratory digging. Loosely tie-in branches before lifting. Lift the plant with as much rootball intact as possible. Keep roots covered to avoid desiccation.
Storing before planting
Pack the rootball with organic matter and wrap it in sacking, before placing it in a cool, shaded spot. Keep the plant well watered.
Replanting
Place the plant in the hole, checking that the roots can be spread out fully. Where necessary, adjust the size of the planting hole. Use the old soil-mark on the stem of the plant as a guide to the correct new planting depth. This will prevent replanting too deeply (one of the biggest killers of all plants). Equally, planting with upper roots exposed will damage most plants. Firm around the plant carefully to eliminate air pockets as you fill in the planting hole.
Larger plants and those placed in windy sites may require staking or guying for the first year after planting to prevent wind rock.
Subsequent care
Water-in thoroughly after planting and continue to water during dry spells. Apply a thick mulch of organic matter such as chipped bark, which will help conserve moisture and suppress weeds. In spring, as growth begins, apply a general fertiliser.