Enjoy the intoxicating fragrance of hyacinths this Christmas and New Year by potting up prepared bulbs in September/October. They are readily available and easy to grow in just a few months.
To have hyacinths in flower for the Christmas period, make sure you buy bulbs labelled 'prepared' and plant them in September and early October. The exact timings will vary according to the cultivar. For example, ‘Pink Pearl’ needs 10 weeks of cool conditions followed by 22 days indoors to reach flowering stage (plant 24 September), while ‘Anna Marie’ needs only eight weeks cool and 18 days inside to bloom (plant 12 October). Low temperatures delay development, so some experimentation may be needed with each cultivar.
You may wish to wear gloves when handling the bulbs as hyacinths can cause skin irritation.
Compost
The simplest compost to choose is bulb fibre - especially if the container has no drainage holes. Alternatively, a soil-based or soil-less compost can be used, provided it has a good, open texture and is moisture retentive but free-draining. It is not necessary to use a fertiliser-rich growing medium or to feed.
Wet the fibre or compost first and place a layer in the bottom of the bowl or pot.
Set the bulbs on the fibre/compost. They can be close together, but not touching each other or the sides of the container.
Fill around the bulbs with more fibre or compost, leaving about 1cm (0.5in) between the compost surface and the container rim to aid watering. The tops of the bulbs should just be showing at the surface.
Growing in bulb vases
An alternative method is to grow the hyacinths in bulb vases. Fill the glass to the neck with water and then place the bulb in the top. The water level should be just below the bottom of the bulb. It can then be treated in the same way as potted hyacinths.
Aftercare
After planting, the bulbs need a dark and cool period (ideally 9°C/48°F) to encourage the development of a good root system. Place the bowls and pots in a black polythene bag and stand them in a cellar or dark corner of a shed or garage. Check regularly and water if there are signs that the growing medium is drying out or the vase needs topping up. Bowls or pots that do not have drainage holes, should be tipped on their sides for a while after watering to allow the excess to run out.
An alternative method is to place the bowls and pots in a cool, sunless situation outdoors, such as against a north-facing wall or fence. Then cover them with 15cm (6in) of bark or compost. There will be less risk of worms entering the containers if the containers are stood on a firm base, such as a slate.
Bringing the bulbs into flower
When roots have developed and the shoots are 4-5cm long (1.5-2in), the pots can be brought indoors. Initially, this should be in to a cool room away from bright light to allow the leaves to green up, then move them close to a window in warmer surroundings. Do not stand them in a draught, close to a source of artificial heat or warm dry air, such as a shelf above a radiator.
A humid atmosphere is also preferred. Stand pots and vases on shallow trays filled with gravel that is kept moist, but the water level is below the base of the pot. If the leaves develop faster than the flower buds, move to a cooler place and cover again to keep them in dark for a day or two, but no longer as the leaves may begin to turn pale. And finally, don’t forget to regularly check if they need watering.
Maya Albert