Planning what to do

Below is a checklist of jobs that need doing in the veg garden.

Early summer

The first crops - baby carrots, beetroot, broad beans, salads and peas for example - are ready to gather in early summer. As their freshness declines with age don't delay harvesting; there should be plenty more crops coming along and you will need the space occupied for later crops.

As crops go over consign them to the compost bin, lightly cultivate the ground, adding fertiliser, and sow or plant further crops. It is a pity to waste space when growing conditions are at a peak.

Long days, moist soils, warm temperatures and the sun high in the sky lead to peak crop growth. In fact, plants fulfil most of their potential in early summer. By late summer, conditions are much less favourable and plants seldom recover lost ground later. So it makes sense to get everything planted and in full growth as early in mid-summer as possible.

Courgettes, cucumbers, French beans, marrows, melons, pumpkins, runner beans, squash and sweetcorn can now be sown outdoors, in sheltered mild districts, where they are to grow. In fact, sown in situ, they develop superior roots systems that help them grow fast and need less watering than transplants.

All remaining hardy plants, such as cabbages, cauliflowers, celery, celeriac, broccoli and leeks, should be planted out as soon as possible.

Tender plants raised indoors can also be set out after hardening off. A fleece covering is especially helpful in boosting growth in cool districts. Aubergines, melons and peppers seldom thrive without extra protection outdoors, whether that's cloches or fleece.

It is rather late to sow most of the crops that should have been sown in spring, but there are often plants to be had from less formal outlets or from acquaintances. You should check that these are free of soil-borne diseases such as clubroot (brassicas) or white rot (leeks).

However, you can still make successional sowings of beetroot, calabrese, carrots, French beans, lettuce, kohl rabi, radishes, rocket, salads generally, spinach, turnips and herbs such as coriander and parsley.

By the end of early summer, crops that run prematurely to seed (bolt) if they encounter cold nights and/or short days can be sown. Chicory, endive, Florence fennel and the Oriental greens including Chinese cabbages can all be sown.

In warm districts it is worth raising plants in cell trays to put out as land becomes free in late summer. French and runner beans and courgettes are particularly valuable.

Weed growth should slow down in summer, but survivors of the spring flush of weeds will need pulling up before they can set seed and make problems for future years.

Watering may be needed during dry spells. Targeting watering to the most responsive crops can reduce this chore to manageable proportions. Potatoes can be given their final earthing up before the foliage meets in the rows.

Feeding crops with more fertiliser is often worthwhile. Greedy cabbage family plants, beetroot, celery, celeriac and leeks especially benefit from supplementary feeding. Container-grown vegetables will respond to regular liquid fertiliser.

Canes and stakes should be inserted in good time to support taller crops, such as runner beans and tomatoes. Netting peas and cabbage family crops against pigeons may be necessary. Collars to fend off cabbage root fly should not be neglected and precautions taken against carrot fly.

Insect pests such as blackfly, caterpillars, greenfly and leaf-mining insects can begin to cause damage in summer.

Potato blight is a constant menace from mid-summer requiring frequent spraying of potatoes and tomatoes if good crops are to be obtained in wet seasons.

In dry seasons powdery mildews can be damaging to courgettes, cucumbers, peas, pumpkins and swedes. Careful watering to keep the soil moist but the foliage dry can limit damage. Red spider mite thrives in hot dry conditions causing leaf loss on French and runner beans.