Planning what to do

Below is a checklist of jobs that need doing in the veg garden.

Late winter/early spring

Most vegetable gardens need feeding, and once the main winter rains have stopped spread a granular general-purpose fertiliser at the manufacturer's recommended rate.

As soon as the soil is dry enough, rake it level and make a fine tilth (prepared soil surface by raking). Sowing can now begin. Unfortunately, the soil is often rather cold for good results and if in doubt wait until weeds begin to emerge. Once weeds germinate it is fair to assume that garden seeds will be satisfactory. Remove the weeds before starting to sow.

Preparing a seedbed early will encourage weed seeds to germinate. Once germinated, remove them and you have a 'stale seedbed' into which you can sow without much risk of severe weed competition later on.

It makes sense to prepare as much ground as you can and cover it with black polythene to keep it weed free and moist ready for sowing.

Containers for vegetables can also be filled now with fertile compost ready for sowing when the opportunity arises.

Broad beans, calabrese, early carrots, lettuce, onions, parsley, parsnips, peas, radishes, rocket, salsify, scorzonera, spinach, spring onions, turnips and herbs such as dill and chervil can all be sown where they are to grow. If frost and winds are a problem covering with horticultural fleece or cloches can take the edge off the weather. Any carrot or cabbage family crops appreciate a fleece covering to prevent damage from cabbage root fly and carrot fly.

Once the first sowings are a few inches tall, it is time, in many cases to make further sowings for continuity. Peas for example crop for about two weeks in summer, so to cover the period mid-June to mid-August you might wish to sow up to four times in spring for a constant supply. Salads in particular become unappetising very quickly, so little and often is the rule in sowing these.

As soon as seedlings can be handled start thinning them out where they are too thick and, where it is appropriate, try a little transplanting to fill in gaps. Discarding surplus seedlings may seem harsh but in gardening you sometimes have to harden your heart if you want good results.

Unfortunately, even the most experienced gardener is at the mercy of the weather and seed quality and failures will occur. If this happens try again with fresh seeds. It is worth cultivating as many gardening acquaintances as possible in case you need to scrounge some plants!

Slugs are another good reason to watch your crops closely - be ready to apply slug controls as soon as seedlings begin to disappear. Sudden absence of pea and bean seeds indicates the presence of mice and trapping is needed. Birds often have to be excluded with nets from seedbeds where they can be very destructive.

It is always better to wait a week or two than sow in poor conditions as crops soon catch up.

For transplanting to their final positions later in spring, raise Brussels sprouts, leeks, summer cabbages and cauliflowers, either in pots, cell trays indoors or a seedbed outdoors.

Indoors, ideally in a greenhouse, sow aubergines, beetroot, celeriac, celery, and peppers including chillies, tomatoes and tender herbs such as basil.

If you don't wish to raise your own plants order plug plants from mail order suppliers as early as possible.

Asparagus crowns and tubers of early potatoes and Jerusalem artichokes can be planted.

Onion sets and shallots can also be planted out.

You should also protect new plants by clearing all old crops from you garden as soon as they have finished to limit carry-over of pests and diseases. The same goes for weeds. Carefully remove these by hand or hoe them off.

With the soil still moist from winter you seldom need to water in spring, but occasionally cold dry winds parch seedbeds and light watering is very helpful.