An evergreen, clump-forming, epiphytic orchid with long, cane-like pseudobulbs. Each pseudobulb is a modification of a stem, which serves as a storage of water and nutrients. Oblong, alternate leaves up to 10cm. Dark pink flowers with white-margined yellow centres are approximately 7cm across. Flowers are produced on short stems in pairs from the nodes on mature pseudobulbs.
0.5-1 metres
0.5-1 metres
| Season | Stem | Flower | Foliage | Fruit |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Spring | ||||
| Summer | ||||
| Autumn | ||||
| Winter |
Plants are best grown in a pot in an epiphytic, medium grade, bark-based potting mix with added perlite, moss, or coir. It is best to stake each cane to keep the upright form when potted. If grown in a basket, the plant will develop more pendulous form. As with many orchids, they grow best when the roots are slightly restricted. Therefore, avoid over-potting or frequent root disturbance. Provide dappled shade and higher humidity in spring and summer, then move the plant to a bright, but cool room in autumn and winter. Reduce watering and feeding until warmer temperatures initiate flowering and new growth in spring. See indoor orchid cultivation
Propagation by seed is only possible in a controlled laboratory environment. Mature plants may be divided when the plant overgrows the pot. Sideshoots (keiki) may develop on older canes -remove and pot them into sphagnum moss when the new roots are at least 2cm long.
No pruning required. Remove spent flowers as necessary, but do not cut the whole cane unless completely shrivelled. Oldest canes may be removed as long as there are at least three, younger, thick, leaf-bearing canes on the plant.
May be susceptible to scale insects, aphids, mealybugs and glasshouse red spider mite.
Generally disease-free.