Runner beans need a support to climb up. The traditional method is to grow them individually up inwardly sloping 2.4m (8ft) tall bamboo canes tied near their top to a horizontal cane. If you slope the bamboo canes so that they meet in the middle and tie them here so that the ends of the canes extend beyond the row you will find picking is easier and the yield is usually better.
When growing in beds and borders a wigwam of canes takes up less room and helps produce an ornamental feature.
Loosely tie the plants to their supports after planting; after that they will climb naturally. Remove the growing point once the plants reach the top of their support.
Keep an eye out for slugs and blackfly that may attack the plants.
Runner beans sometimes fail to set and there are a number of causes - and a number of solutions.
Ensuring the soil is constantly moist and doesn't dry out is the first key to success; mulch the soil in June. Misting the foliage and flowers regularly, especially during hot and dry weather, will increase humidity around the flowers and help improve flower set.
Flower set is better in alkaline, chalky soils. If your soil is neutral or acidic it pays to use lime.
Another way to improve flower set is to pinch out the growing tips of the plants when they are 15cm (6in) high. The flowers formed on the resulting sideshoots usually set better.
If you regularly have problems it would be worth growing pink or white-flowered cultivars, such as 'Painted Lady' or 'Mergoles', which usually set pods more easily.
More on problems with runner bean flower set
Slugs and snails: These feed on the young seedlings and you'll see the tell tale slime trail on the soil around your crop, as well as on the leaves.
Remedy: There are many ways to control slugs and snails, including beer traps, sawdust or eggshell barriers, copper tape and biocontrols.
More info on Slugs and snails
Aphids: Look for colonies of greenfly on the soft shoot tips of plants or on leaves. They suck sap and excrete sticky honeydew, encouraging the growth of black sooty moulds.
Remedy: Use your finger and thumb to squash aphid colonies or use biological control in the greenhouse.
More info on Aphids
No/ very few beans: This is one of the most common problems of bean growing and is usually caused by lack of moisture and/or poor pollination by insects.
Remedy: Plant or sow beans into soil that has had plenty of organic matter, such as well-rotted manure added the previous autumn, as this will aid moisture and nutrient retention around the roots. Plant in a sheltered site as this will encourage bees to visit and pollinate the plants.
More info on No/ very few beans
Start harvesting when the pods are 15-20cm (6-8in) long and certainly before the beans inside begin to swell.
It is vital that you pick regularly to prevent any pods reaching maturity; once this happens plants will stop flowering and no more pods will be set. If you pick regularly, plants will crop for up to eight weeks or more.
Nigel Slater recommends serving this runner beans with lemon and garlic crumbs, as a lovely side dish for grilled fish.
'White Lady' AGM:
A top-quality bean with fleshy, smooth, stringless pods.
‘Hestia’: This is a new dwarf runner bean, ideal for containers, only growing to about 45cm (18in), but still producing high quality, delicious beans. As it is short it can be netted against bird attack.
‘St George’ AGM: A heavy cropping, semi-stringless bean, with bi-coloured red and white flowers.
‘White Apollo’ AGM: The long, smooth fleshy pods crop over a long season and are excellent quality.
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