French beans need a warm, sunny spot in well-drained soil. Fork in some well-rotted manure in late autumn or early winter before you sow your beans.
They are tender and don’t like frost or cold temperatures, so wait until May or June to sow the seeds. Dwarf varieties can even be sown in July, for an autumn crop.
It is best to start the beans in small pots, and sow two beans per pot 5cm (2in) deep (only plant the strongest plant). Place the pots outside in a cold frame or in a sheltered position. Once the beans reach 8cm (3in) tall you can plant them out into their final positions.
For an earlier crop you can sow in April, but you will need to keep these pots indoors, and then can plant outside at the end of May.
Climbing French beans
These need a support to climb up. The traditional method is to grow them in a double row of bamboo canes (use 1.8m/6ft tall canes), with 45cm (18in) between the rows. Place the bamboo canes 15cm (6in) apart within each row and slope them inwards and then tie near the top to a horizontal cane.
If you don’t have room for rows of canes, you can also make wigwams. Again, use 1.8m (6ft) tall canes and use four or five canes per wigwam, spacing each cane 15cm (6in) at the ground. Tie the tops of the canes together. Growing beans up wigwams is a good method for container growing.
No matter which method you choose, plant one bean plant at the base of each cane, and loosely tie the shoots to the cane.
Dwarf French beans
This type only grow to about 45cm (18in) tall and are best grown in small blocks, where neighbouring plants provide support. Space plants 15cm (6in) apart.
If you are caught out by an unexpected cold snap after planting, cover the plants with fleece or newspaper until it is warmer.
Water well during periods of prolonged dry weather. Place a mulch of well-rotted manure or mushroom compost around the plants in July to help conserve soil moisture.
Slugs and snails: These feed on the young seedlings and you'll see the tell tale slime trail on the soil around your crop, as well as on the leaves.
Remedy: There are many ways to control slugs and snails, including beer traps, sawdust or eggshell barriers, copper tape and biocontrols.
More info on Slugs and snails
Birds: Birds, especially pigeons, can cause an array of problems including eating seedlings, buds, leaves, fruit and vegetables.
Remedy: Protect the plants from birds by covering them with netting or fleece. Scarecrows and bird-scaring mechanisms work for a while, but the most reliable method of protection is to cover plants with horticultural fleece or mesh.
More info on Birds
Aphids: Look for colonies of greenfly on the soft shoot tips of plants or on leaves. They suck sap and excrete sticky honeydew, encouraging the growth of black sooty moulds.
Remedy: Use your finger and thumb to squash aphid colonies or use biological control in the greenhouse.
More info on Aphids
Begin picking the pods when they are 10cm (4in) long. Pods are ready when they snap easily and before the beans can be seen through the pod. By picking regularly you can crop plants for several weeks.
Once all the pods have been harvested, water the plants well and feed with a liquid fertiliser. This way you may get a further cropping of smaller, yet worthwhile pods.
A simple summer salad of French beans atop mozzarella slices with an unusual yoghurt dressing.
‘Kenyan Bean’ AGM:This dwarf bean produces slender, stringless pods. They are tender, easy to prepare and delicious.
‘Purple Teepee’:A dwarf bean with pretty purple pods. They turn green when cooked.
‘Algarve’ AGM:A climbing bean with straight, flat, mid-green pods and totally stringless.
‘Golden Gate’:An attractive golden-yellow climbing bean which produces a heavy crop over a long season.