Rose

A white powdery fungal growth on the surface of leaves, buds, petals and shoots of roses and many other plants. The foliage may become discoloured, heavily infected young leaves may be curled and distorted, and the plant’s vigour may be reduced.

The amount of water vapour in the atmosphere. Different plants require different levels of humidity. Houseplants that need high humidity are best grown in a steamy bathroom, misted regularly or the pot placed in a saucer of damp pebbles. In a greenhouse, humidity can be raised in hot weather by damping down (wetting) the floor, overhead watering or misting. However, high humidity can cause fungal problems, in which case open vents to improve ventilation.

humidity

You may see the following symptoms:

• A white, powdery fungal growth on the leaves and shoots. Upper, lower or both leaf surfaces can be affected
• There may be discolouration (yellow, reddish or purple) of the affected parts of the leaf, and heavily infected young leaves can be curled and distorted
• Mildew growth may also be found on the stems, flower stalks, calyces and petals
• Heavily infected flower buds frequently fail to open properly
• Mildew growth on stems (where it is often found surrounding thorns) and flower stalks is usually thicker and more mat-like than that on the leaves
• The mildew growth on all parts may turn browner as it ages

The RHS believes that avoiding pests, diseases and weeds by good practice in cultivation methods, cultivar selection, garden hygiene and encouraging or introducing natural enemies, should be the first line of control. If chemical controls are used, they should be used only in a minimal and highly targeted manner.

Non-chemical control

• Choose the best location
  • Plant in full sun where possible (the exception is shade-loving plants)
  • Climbers and ramblers grown in situations with good air circulation (e.g. over arches, rope swags or pergolas) are less likely to be affected than those grown in still air (e.g. planted closely against walls, in sheltered corners, etc.). Bush roses grown in sheltered situations are also more likely to be attacked
• Manage the soil
  •  Provide good drainage, but water regularly during dry periods (plants suffering from regular but intermittent drought-stress are more susceptible). Application of mulch may help water retention
  • Feed regularly to encourage strong growth, but avoid using too much nitrogen – this produces ‘soft’ growth which is prone to attack
• Manage humidity and leaf wetness
  • Don’t plant too densely, giving space between plants. Aim for an open environment to increase air circulation and reduce humidity
  • Prune shrubs to give an open structure (which will improve air circulation and reduce humidity)
  • Avoid overhead watering early in the morning or in the evening
  • Overhead watering (in mid-morning) in dry weather can reduce powdery mildew (which does not like direct contact with water). Avoid leaves remaining wet for long periods, however, as this may favour other diseases such as black spot and rust

Badly affected shoots are best pruned out and disposed of as soon as the symptoms are seen. During routine spring pruning any shoots showing large patches of mildew around the thorns should also be cut out

There are considerable differences in susceptibility between rose cultivars. However, any claimed resistance to the disease may not persist for the lifetime of the plant, or be effective in all localities.

Chemical control

Like that of most powdery mildews, the majority of the growth of rose powdery mildew is on the surface of the plant. This exposed growth makes it susceptible to a range of chemical control measures.

The fungicides sulphur (Fungus Clear Ultra 2, Mildew Clear for Edibles), tebuconazole (Provanto Fungus Fighter Concentrate), tebuconazole with trifloxystrobin (Provanto Fungus Fighter Plus, Toprose Fungus Control & Protect), and triticonazole (Fungus Clear Ultra) are labelled for the control of rose powdery mildew.

The following products contain a combination of both insecticide and fungicide, enabling the control of both damaging invertebrates and disease: triticonazole containing acetamiprid (Roseclear Ultra, Roseclear Ultra Gun), sulphur and fatty acids (Roseclear 3-in-1). When a proprietary product contains an insecticide as well as a fungicide it would be preferable to use an alternative product if invertebrate damage is not a problem on the plants treated.

SB Plant Invigorator, Growing Success Fungus Stop, RHS Bug and Mildew Control, Vitax Rose Guard, Growing Success Rose Guard, Ecofective Bug & Mildew Control and the Ecofective ‘Defender’ range contain a blend of surfactants and nutrients and can be used on any edible or ornamental plants, with no harvest interval. They have a physical mode of action and may be used against powdery mildews, as well as a range of invertebrates such as whiteflies, aphids, spider mites, mealybugs, scale insects and psyllids.

Fungicides are likely to need several applications during the growing season, particularly in still, humid weather. Sprays in late summer and early autumn may help to reduce the number of infected buds in which the fungus can overwinter.

Inclusion of a product does not indicate a recommendation or endorsement by RHS Gardening Advice. It is a list of products currently available to the home gardener.

Download

Fungicides for gardeners (Adobe Acrobat pdf document outlining fungicides available to gardeners)

Links

Chemicals: using a sprayer
Chemicals: using safely and effectively
Chemicals: storing and disposing safely

Rose powdery mildew spreads during the growing season by means of microscopic, air-borne spores produced on the powdery growth. Unlike many other fungal diseases, extended periods of leaf wetness are not required in order for the spores to germinate. This means that powdery mildew is often a problem during dry summers.

High humidity is, however, favourable for spore production and infection, and plants growing in areas with poor air flow (allowing the accumulation of humid, ‘stagnant’ air) are likely to be attacked. Thus climbers and ramblers grown against walls and fences are often heavily infected. 

Rose mildew overwinters as fungal growth (mycelium) on the stems, or within some of the dormant buds. When these buds resume growth in spring the shoots soon become completely covered with mildew. The fungus then spreads from these infected shoots (known as ‘primaries’) onto the rest of the plant.