Planting and moving
Plant roses, but avoid areas where roses were previously grown, as this can lead to problems with replant diseases.
Continue to plant bare-root deciduous trees and hedging plants. Tree stakes should be put in place before the rootball to avoid damage to the roots.
Established deciduous trees and shrubs can be moved now if needed, so long as the ground is not frozen or waterlogged.
When visiting gardens and garden centres, take note of the most colourful dogwood, willow and white-stemmed Rubus cultivars, as well as scented winter shrubs such as Hamamelis, Sarcococca and Chimonanthus. Consider planting some for a winter display.
Winter maintenance
Check tree ties and stakes on established plants. Replace, tighten or slacken them where necessary.
Firm back newly planted trees and shrubs if they have been lifted by frost heave or strong winds.
Protect newly planted trees, hedges and shrubs from cold winds and frosts, which can loosen and lift the roots. Gently re-firm them in if you notice this problem, and put up a temporary netting windbreak if there is no natural shelter. Thick dry mulches, such as straw or composted bark, will protect the roots from cold.
If it snows in your garden, you may need to brush it off the branches of conifers, climbers and light-limbed shrubs and trees. Heavy snowfall can splay branches, break limbs and spoil the shape of the tree.
Remove weeds from around the bases of young trees by hand.
Pruning and training
Pruning and renovation of many deciduous trees, shrubs and hedges can be carried out from now throughout the dormant season. Examples include beech, hazel and hornbeam. Some are best to leave until spring, including tender plants, evergreens, and Prunus species (e.g. ornamental cherries, plums and almonds) as these are vulnerable to silver leaf if pruned in the autumn or winter.
Hold off on hydrangea pruning until March, as the old flowerheads will help to protect the shoots from frost.
Large trees can be difficult to prune. Take care not to damage the tree by tearing the bark when sawing off thicker branches. It may be best to consult a tree surgeon.
Prune Wisteria – cut back the sideshoots shortened by summer pruning to two or three buds. Be careful to retain flower buds.
Tie wall shrubs and climbers onto their supports to protect them from wind damage. Ornamental vines, ivy, Virginia creeper and Boston ivy can be cut back now – it’s a good idea to keep them away from windows, doors, gutters and roof tiles.
Propagation
Seeds of berrying trees and shrubs can still be sown – but be quick, as they need a period of frost to break their dormancy. Examples are Sorbus, hawthorn, hollies and Pernettya.
Take hardwood cuttings of ornamental shrubs such as Cornus, Salix, Forsythia, Weigela, Escallonia, Rosa, Ribes, Chaenomeles and Elaeagnus. Many deciduous climbers can also be propagated in this way (e.g. Fallopia and Lonicera).
Check hardwood cuttings taken last winter. They may need planting out or potting on.
Problems
Bracket fungi on trees are visible at this time of year. If the tree is in poor health, it is worth calling in a tree surgeon for a professional opinion.
Put plastic-free biodegradable rabbit guards around newly planted trees and shrubs to protect the bark from rabbit damage.
Inspect sick-looking box shrubs and holly trees for signs of blight. Tolerate holly blight and replace box with evergreen alternatives.
Coral spot is often noticed once the leaves have fallen from deciduous hedges, shrubs and trees. Prune to reduce congestion and cut out affected branches, adding to your council compost collection.
Check for damage or cankers on deciduous trees while stems and trunks are readily visible. Prune out torn or damaged branches to prevent disease infection.
