The flowers of peaches appear very early on in the year, so protection from frost may be necessary to prevent the potential crop from being harmed.
When peaches flower, there are very few pollinating insects around, so it is best to carry out pollinating by hand. To do this, help transfer pollen by spending a few minutes over several sunny afternoons pressing the bristles of a small paint brush into every bloom.
As the soil beneath walls can become very dry, you will need to keep a close eye on watering and have to apply plenty of water during periods of sunny, dry weather. However, avoid excessive or irregular watering when fruit is ripening to avoid the skin splitting.
Water container-grown trees almost every day during the growing season and give them a high potash liquid feed every couple of weeks. Repot compact peaches in containers every couple of years, using John Innes No 3 loam-based potting compost.
When fruit appears it will need thinning. Remove poorly placed, small or misshapen fruits when they are about the width of your little finger nail. With peaches aim to have a fruit every 15cm (6in).
As the fruit develops it may need protecting from birds or foraging squirrels.
In February each year, feed the trees with a balanced granular fertiliser, spreading 100g per square metre (3oz per square yard) over the root area.
Pruning fan-trained trees
Fruit appears almost entirely on shoots made in the previous season, so pruning aims to replace fruited wood with new, young wood.
Fan-trained fruit trees need summer pruning to ensure the shape is maintained and there is plenty of fruiting wood.
For a good crop, peaches are best fan trained against a south or south-west facing wall or fence in moisture retentive, well-drained soil. As peaches flower early in the year, avoid planting in frost pockets, choosing the most sheltered site possible.
Before planting erect a series of horizontal training wires against your vertical support – these should be set at 15cm (6in) apart , starting from 30cm (12in) above the level of the soil.
Plant bare root peaches from November to March, 15-20cm (6-8in) from the wall and angled slightly towards it. If you are growing several, space them 3.6-4.5m (12-15ft) apart.
Buy a partially trained, two or three-year-old fan as this will save both time and money - it should have at least eight branches. Spread these out evenly over the wall space, with four branches on each side, tied to canes already attached to wires on the wall.
Growing in containers
Many peaches, can be grown in at least 45cm (18in) containers filled with soil-based John Innes No 3 compost, but they need annual pruning to keep them within bounds. You can buy patio peaches, such as ‘Bonanza’, which is naturally dwarf and needs little or no pruning to keep its compact shape. After ten years you should expect this fruitful, but diminutive plant to stand around 1.5m (5ft) tall.
Peach leaf curl
The spores of fungus are spread by rain splash. Prevent this fungal disease from attacking plants by covering with a rain shelter of plastic sheeting from January to May.
More info on Peach leaf curl
It is impossible to stop squirrels from coming into a garden. Placing netting over plants that are being damaged may be of some help.
More info on Squirrels
If spotted early enough, insects can be removed by hand.
More info on Brown scale
Fruit is ready for harvesting after it has fully coloured and the flesh near the stalk feels soft. To pick, cup it in the palm of the hand and gently lift. It should easily come away from the tree. The tree will need regular visits for picking as the fruit will not ripen all at once. Peaches are best eaten directly after being picked.
'Rochester' AGM:Later flowering, yellow flesh and tasty.
Peregrine AGM:High yielding, tasty with white flesh.
Red Wing:Dark red fruit, claimed to have some resistance to peach leaf curl.
‘Bonanza’:Dwarf cultivar, suitable for growing in a pot.
Duke of York AGM:Yellow-fleshed cultivar for harvesting in early summer.