Growing guide

How to grow cotoneasters

Cotoneasters are a large group of evergreen and deciduous shrubs, flowering in late spring/early summer and tolerant of all but very wet soils. They are versatile plants, with different growth habits allowing them to be chosen as specimen shrubs, hedging, groundcover or wall shrubs, and are a beneficial plant for wildlife. They tolerate some shade, but produce more flowers and berries when grown in full sun.

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Quick facts

Suitable for all but very wet soils in full sun or partial shade
Flowers and berries are attractive to wildlife
Some cultivars are effective at trapping pollutants so make great urban hedges
Mainly evergreen with different leaf sizes and shapes
Deciduous plants can provide great autumn colour
On exposed sites evergreen types may suffer leaf damage in severe winters
Larger shrubs can be trained as small trees
Berries are toxic to humans and pets when eaten in quantity

All you need to know

What are cotoneasters?

Cotoneasters are a varied group of shrubs belonging to the rose family (Rosaceae). Originating mostly from Eastern Asia, especially China and the Himalayas, they were introduced to the UK in the 19^th century as ornamental plants. There are 269 accepted species ranging from low-growing alpine types to larger shrubs that can also be grown as small trees.

Choosing

As there is such a wide range of cotoneasters available, you may want to consider what you intend to use yours for before making your choice. We have recommendations for:

Tree and shrub cotoneasters

Taller cotoneasters give substantial height to borders and make an excellent foil for other plants. Cotoneaster ‘Rothschildianus’, for example, is a semi-evergreen shrub reaching 5m, with clusters of creamy-white berries in autumn. Some large cotoneasters can also make attractive small trees. You can raise the canopy as they grow by removing the lower branches to create a clear trunk. Cotoneaster ‘Cornubia’ develops a delicate, arching habit and is covered in heavy trusses of bright red berries well into the winter.

Wall-shrub cotoneasters

Cotoneasters have strong woody stems and with some initial training make a great choice for growing up against a wall or fence. Cotoneaster horizontalis is the most widely used but C. franchetii, C. salicifolius and C. lacteus train well onto trellis or wire supports.

Cotoneaster by size

There is a huge size range among different species of cotoneaster. In contrast to the tree-sized ones, C. procumbens ‘Queen of Carpets’ and C. dammeri are low-growing evergreen shrubs that are great for suppressing weeds and preventing soil erosion on slopes. They also clip nicely into low hedges or mounds offering an informal alternative to box hedging.

Cotoneaster for hedges, wall shrubs and banks

The RHS carried out research on the environmental benefits of hedges, and cotoneasters were found to be good choices. Cotoneaster franchetii with its small, oval, hairy leaves was very effective at trapping pollutants as well as its flowers and berries being of value for wildlife.

These lists are certainly not exhaustive so you could also:

Use the RHS Find a Plant tool to browse profiles on different cotoneaster, with filters to narrow down your search by size and growth habit.
Visit the National Collection of cotoneaster at Sir Harold Hillier Gardens in Hampshire.

There are a number of cotoneaster species and cultivars with an RHS Award of Garden Merit, which shows they performed well in RHS trials, so are reliable choices.

Cotoneasters to take care with

Some species of cotoneaster are potentially invasive. These are Cotoneaster bullatus, C. horizontalis, C. integrifolius, C. microphyllus and C. simonsii. It is still lawful to purchase and grow these in gardens but, where possible, seek alternatives, especially if your garden borders open countryside, an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty or an ecologically sensitive site such as a nature reserve, designated SSSI or National Park.

Invasive non-native plants

Buying

Cotoneasters are widely available all year round in garden centres and nurseries, and from online suppliers, especially shrub and hedging specialists, by mail order. They are usually sold as container-grown plants, in a wide range of sizes, for immediate planting. Hedging plants may be sold as root-wrapped specimens.

Use the RHS Find a Plant tool to track down stockists of specific cultivars.

Buying: garden centre plants

Buying: mail order plants

How to choose healthy plants

Buying: trees and shrubs

When to plant

The best time to plant trees and shrubs is in early to mid-autumn or spring, as warm, moist soil at these times of year aids good root establishment. You can plant over the winter too, if the ground isn't waterlogged or frozen.

If you buy a cotoneaster during the summer, plant it as soon as you can and water regularly, aiming to keep the soil moist but not soggy.

Where to plant

Cotoneasters are usually resilient and tolerate most situations, though some of the larger-leaved, evergreen varieties can suffer leaf damage on exposed sites in severe winters.

Plants will flower better and produce more berries if grown in full sun
Tolerate all but the very wettest soils and once established, grow well on dry soils
Can be pruned but, if selected as a specimen shrub, better to allow enough room for your plant to reach its full potential
Some smaller cotoneasters grow well in containers
If planting next to a wall or fence, plant the root ball at least 45cm away from the structure to allow rain to reach the roots
They make a great evergreen background for highlighting shrubs with colourful foliage such as Euonymus species, Osmanthus heterophyllus ‘Goshiki’ or Leucothoe SCARLETTA (‘Zeblid’)

How to plant

Planting a cotoneaster is quick and easy, but worth doing carefully to ensure your plant settles in well and thrives for years to come. No special soil preparation is required, but if your soil is poor or very heavy, dig in around one bucketful of organic matter per square metre prior to planting.

If you've bought a larger specimen to grow into a small tree, put a suitable tree stake in place at planting time.

If you are planting your cotoneaster in a container, choose one at least 30cm wide and deep or large enough to accommodate the roots comfortably and fill with a soil-based peat-free compost like John Innes No 3.

How to plant a shrub

Hedges: planting

Growing plants in containers

Trees and shrubs: planting

Watering

Like most shrubs, cotoneasters should be watered thoroughly when first planted, and during dry spells for their first two years while they are establishing (growing roots into the surrounding soil).

Once established, they are fairly drought tolerant and shouldn’t need additional watering except in prolonged dry spells.

Plants in containers should be checked daily during hot, dry spells as the compost will dry out faster. Containers will need less water in winter but should still be checked occasionally.

Watering

Feeding

Plants growing in the soil do not need any special feeding unless they are showing signs of nutrient deficiencies. However, they will benefit from an application of homemade compost or any well-rotted organic matter on the surrounding soil – as this breaks down nutrients will be released into the soil.

In spring, the top 2-3cm of soil in containers can be replaced with some homemade compost or peat-free John Innes No 3. Containers will benefit from a liquid feed once a month during the growing season (April to September) with an organic (such as seaweed) or homemade feed (such as nettle or comfrey).

Homemade fertilisers

Container maintenance

How to feed plants

Composting

Nutrient deficiencies

Mulching

In late winter or early spring when the soil is moist, apply a 5-7cm layer of homemade compost or well-rotted organic matter on the soil around your plant. Leave a mulch-free circle of 10cm around any woody stems; mulch can stay damp and cause rotting if it’s piled up around the base of shrubs and trees.

How to mulch with organic matter

Mulches and mulching

Repotting

Plants grown in containers will need repotting every three to five years. Spring is the best time to do this as plants will be coming into active growth. Avoid repotting later in the year as the plants may sit in over-wet, excess compost over the winter.